Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 128
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hahahaha thanks steve lol :laugh:

:banana:onedgesig.jpg:banana:

why does it matter? i don't care if you think it's weird or not funny. i've got a quirky sense of humor that you'll never understand through text on a forum and i'm not planning to change it unless i see something better which you probably won't approve of either. wasn't supposed to be a come back before because it's not an argument. just me being me.

Edited by Samuel Leonard

why does it matter? i don't care if you think it's weird or not funny. i've got a quirky sense of humor that you'll never understand through text on a forum and i'm not planning to change it unless i see something better which you probably won't approve of either. wasn't supposed to be a come back before because it's not an argument. just me being me.

+1, QFT

-D

Hey guys probley gona get flamed like hell but, ive taken off the standard cross over pipe off my NA skyline and replaced it with straight steel piping without a resonator box. Atm, from the throttle body there is a 45 degree 3inch silicon joiner, then about 30cm of metal pipe then a 3inch joiner, the AFM and a pod filter. As soon as i start the car it stalls instantly, if i rev it slightly it will run but very poorly and as soon as i take my foot off the accelerator the car stalls.

There are two hoses that are not connected to anything atm, on runs to the intake manifold and the other to the top of the cam covers, these at present are not joined to anything. how can this problem be fixed?

(Worst case senario, ill just put the standard cross over pipe back on. But would like to get this to work as have heard the induction noise using metal pipe sounds ok :P)

Thanks Nikk

Hey guys probley gona get flamed like hell but, ive taken off the standard cross over pipe off my NA skyline and replaced it with straight steel piping without a resonator box. Atm, from the throttle body there is a 45 degree 3inch silicon joiner, then about 30cm of metal pipe then a 3inch joiner, the AFM and a pod filter. As soon as i start the car it stalls instantly, if i rev it slightly it will run but very poorly and as soon as i take my foot off the accelerator the car stalls.

There are two hoses that are not connected to anything atm, on runs to the intake manifold and the other to the top of the cam covers, these at present are not joined to anything. how can this problem be fixed?

(Worst case senario, ill just put the standard cross over pipe back on. But would like to get this to work as have heard the induction noise using metal pipe sounds ok :P)

Thanks Nikk

Thanks to Zebra this may of been resolved, apparently the pipe running from the manifold back to the inlet pipe needs to be plumbed into the intake pipe itself..

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks to Zebra this may of been resolved, apparently the pipe running from the manifold back to the inlet pipe needs to be plumbed into the intake pipe itself..

Yep. Sounds like a severe vacuum leak. Basically by not having that hose connected you're allowing a lot of air into the intake that is un-metred. All air entering the intake has to go through the airflow meter otherwise it will run like shit and run lean.

Edited by Samuel Leonard
  • 1 month later...

I know i'm and apprentice mechanic and I should know what's wrong with the car but I don't and just want peoples opinions in what might be the problem.

Recently at times my fuel pump wont prime on start up but after you hit it then it would prime but today it has been realy bad, went to start it to go to work and didn't prime and it needed a few good hits and when leaving work today it took a couple more hard hits to work then filled the car up on south rd with BP Ultimate as usual and was about to exit the petty station and it stalled and wouldn't start for about 10min even with hitting the crap out of the fuel pump and swithing the ignition on and off to get it to prime.

Finaly got it started and 1km down the road it stalled again and did the same thing it did at the petty station........wouldn't prime for 10min, once it started I took off and when leaving some lights 2 min after it surged after changing to second (full tank of fuel)

Later after I left a mayes house it stalled after going around a round about a little too fast by accident after the rear slid out abit but the car started shortly after while cranking the car and having a mate belt the crap out of the fuel pump.

My 32 has a Walbro but not sure what one exactly as it came with the car. I wriggled the wires on top of the sender unit to see if that would do anything but it didn't. I have been told before that fuel pumps don't start to die they just die without warning that's why I would like some opinions.

Cheers Tim

If the brushes on the fuel pump motor are worn to there limits then they wont be contacting the armature on the shaft to energize the magnetic fields to make it turn.

A wire could break but still make a circuit when the insulation is holding it together. Then when everything warms up the insulation stretches and pulls the wire apart

Try puling each wire from its ends and see if the insulation stretches anywhere.

Check for voltage at the pump you might see the volts go from 12 to 0 then its the wiring. If you have constant 12v at the pump and the pump stops then its the pump.

Also do the relay mod and run a heavier wire to the pump through the relay.

I think you solved your own issue just buy a hammer to fix it..lol

brads right most likely R31 do that all the time,

also

check for dead fuel pump relay, think its a green one on that car. or some nissan use a transistor inside the ecu , which fry with big loads on big pumps

bad ground on pump ?

vapour locked, bad fuel.. when it happens open fuel lid let out hiss, try to start the car with the lid off fuel tank. E85 and E10 do this a lot , even more so at high altitude , not so much here

low voltage/intermittent voltage from worn out ignition barrel , heavy key chains are death to cars, car has a tiny fuel leak that airlocks the pump

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey people, What does it mean when your car pretty much stalls taking off from traffic lights, coughs and splutters until you rev it a little, and power cuts out as your driving? Does it in every gear, but doesn't do it every/all the time (exept for last night) Had the 'exhaust gas temperature' light flash a few times last night as well, guessing that'd be due to higher revs, as last night was the first time the car has done that. Has stalled a few times when starting it up, only in the morning when the cars cold though.. Never cuts out completely when driving, just seems as though the motors not getting fuel? Seems to run a little better when I put octane booster in. Had a new turbo and stock exhaust put on recently, dont know if that'd have anything to do with it though? Got me baffled.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...