Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i have a 89 R32, the car is running rich, i waste soooo much money on fuel, can smell petrol when i drive and on occasion get backfiring issues. Its not heavily modded, it has 3 inch cat back, gutted cat, running 15psi and has splitfires and new plugs. The car was horrible before i put the splitfires in, i had zero accelloration and the car would backfire faster rather than increase speed. splitfires have given me better millage and much better performance but the car is still running rich as with the same problems but scaled down a bit now.

Can anyone please suggest why the car is running rich thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380268-r32-gtst-running-rich/
Share on other sites

Nope. There is a tuned map, then there is the 02 feedback in low load area's to help with the fuel economy but this only works if the sensor is relaying the correct info back to the ecu,

If the sensor tells the ecu its running lean (due to a bad sensor) then the ecu will richen the mixture up giving it worse economy.

Where as if the sensor is not giving feedback the ecu will use the tuned map which is better than bad feedback from a dud sensor

possibly, the solder joints can break and give a dodgy connection

some time with a soldering iron will fix it tho

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/113284-fixing-your-rb26-afms/

hey guys so ive dissconnected the o2 sensor now, haven't noticed a change yet as i only took it for a fang around the block, would i be able to diagnose if my afm and o2 sensor work correctly by taking to them with a multimeter ??

Hey guys i have a 89 R32, the car is running rich, i waste soooo much money on fuel, can smell petrol when i drive and on occasion get backfiring issues. Its not heavily modded, it has 3 inch cat back, gutted cat, running 15psi and has splitfires and new plugs. The car was horrible before i put the splitfires in, i had zero accelloration and the car would backfire faster rather than increase speed. splitfires have given me better millage and much better performance but the car is still running rich as with the same problems but scaled down a bit now.

Can anyone please suggest why the car is running rich thanks guys.

sounds like your cooling temp sensor for sure, check that also when u do it clean ur o2 and afm sensor, but its sounds like a cooling temp sensor, my 33 has done two in 4 months

well i did a oil seal on my turbo , after putting the new one on cleaning all the oil out of my intake pipes, i cleaned the amf sensor, and soon as i went around the corner and hit boost the the car started spittin black smoke and runnign rough, I cheacked all sensors and borrowed a few off a mate, every sensor was great, i didnt check the cooling temp sensor, so i did research asked about , if the cars cold and i drive it and let idle idles great until car warms up. ( only take 30 seconds if that ) any ways i took the punt and yes it was the cooling temp sensor, the cooling temp sensor reads the car engine temp, any ways when they are f**ked they read a nutral degree ( zero) and as ypu wopuld all know a car engine is a lot hotter lol, so they cts is telling the computer to pump fuel in to make it combust to make the engine warmer,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...