Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im going to do new plugs on next service in 500km any suggestions?

im going to get a high flow panel filter and ill clean the afm no problems

but atm probably cant afford a O2 sensor

  • Replies 72
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ive never had the light on the dash and have twice had the pin under the empty line

pretty sure that the low fuel light is operated seperately to the dash gauge. as i said earlier, it generally comes on with around 10L left before empty, so if you have never gotten down to a point where it has taken over 55L to fill then you haven't gotten the tank low enough

pretty sure that the low fuel light is operated seperately to the dash gauge. as i said earlier, it generally comes on with around 10L left before empty, so if you have never gotten down to a point where it has taken over 55L to fill then you haven't gotten the tank low enough

correcto mutcho, when you pull the sender unit out you can see a switch thing on the very bottom of sender unit itself but it will only work if the float touches the switch on the unit. So if the sender is giving false readings saying your are empty (fuel gauge can be on 'E') but then the float will not be in contact with the switch on the assembely because you still have more fuel than what its showing on the gauge.

Edited by central coast person

im going to do new plugs on next service in 500km any suggestions?

im going to get a high flow panel filter and ill clean the afm no problems

but atm probably cant afford a O2 sensor

well im not sure what to say but the fact is that its the O2 sensor that causes poor economy, particularly if u are still getting poor economy when driving the car nicely.

They are less than $100 delivered from the business traders on here n u can change it yourself- peice of piss...

do you have an ECU you can tune with?

If not

I dare to to put a tank load of E85 in the car and run on the standard ECU....post video's for lulz

i dare him to put a tank of e85 in and then try to drive out of the driveway of the servo without needing a towtruck, LOL

fixed your post for lulz

=.=

Just an FYI, my search for a glaring face on the internet lead me to imgur.

From there I proceded to redit.

From there, I proceded to very random places.

And hour later, I had forgotten about this post until I was closing my tabs ><

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...