Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its a good think that the bottom end turns freely.

Might just need new guides and inlet valves and you're off again

yeh i was just pondering that in the shower just now, almost cracked a smile,

a little of topic but how do u get ur head stud nuts and washers out of the head, just a magnet thingy mcbob.

and will i be right to pull the girdle and big end caps off just to look for damage and then put em back on with the same bearings if all is ok?

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

did it make any bad noises when it died? if its mashed valves you would have heard it.

and assuming the bottom end was at tdc when you took the pic of the cam gear before removing anything theres no way its timing related. 4 degrees is nothing

Yeh it made a screeching noise, at first I thought it was a wiring issue with the starter as it kinda sounded like when u turn the car on when it's already on, it didn't sound like what I would imagine it to sound like when shit hits each other,

The pic was not at tdc I just had the camera on an angle

Interesting, so they wouldn't have been compatable with eithe the standard nissans or tomies, strange that only the inlet side seems to be affected then,

Didn't see anything like that on the invoice,

sorry to hear mate, i feel for u. when i first put my motor back together, and after the first drive, the timing belt done itself up reeeeal fuggin tight. no idea how but when it was hot it was tight. your tensioner may have snapped because even if it comes loose it should not really skip teeth. its still pretty tight even with the bolt loose. im not sure about huge cams like yours, but mine which are stock can not come into contact with the piston if the cam gears come completely loose. really hope its nothin too big mate.

(i snapped a collet during assembling a rb head at work, we replaced it but at the time none were in stock and any aftermarket and genuine collets wouldn't match up)

But you are right how its odd it only affected the intake side,

You know how close the valves come during overlap? Exhaust valve may have held intake valve from closing

do a comp test

(i snapped a collet during assembling a rb head at work, we replaced it but at the time none were in stock and any aftermarket and genuine collets wouldn't match up)

But you are right how its odd it only affected the intake side,

You know how close the valves come during overlap? Exhaust valve may have held intake valve from closing

do a comp test

Engine is out and wouldn't turn over by hand or starter motor, head will be off this arvo do pics will be up this evening

ok so the head is off and dame they is heavy when u leave the intake on and trying to go up and over ARP studs,

and the news isnt good,

11 bent valves and 1 is now a limied edition 3 piece valve,

so clearly cam timing is to blame, its something i never considered, i now wish i could have checked cam timing before the belt came off, but i couldnt turn the engine over to get it all back to TDC any way,

it looks like all the intake valves have had a kiss with the piston and now are all sitting flat, and appear to be jammed against the head it self, hence why the lifters are sitting up againd the lobe, still able to rotate the exhaust cam and thats not fouling on the intake valves,

so hear are the pics,

number 1

IMG_0906.jpgIMG_0911.jpg

number 2

IMG_0907.jpgIMG_0912.jpg

number 3

IMG_0908.jpgIMG_0913.jpg

number 4

IMG_0909.jpgIMG_0914.jpg

number 6

IMG_0910.jpgIMG_0916.jpg

and finally number 5

IMG_0905.jpgIMG_0915.jpgIMG_0917.jpgIMG_0919.jpgIMG_0918.jpg

if there is any positives, the bottom end is not siezed, yay

so where to go from here, i had to sacrifice a lot to do this build as i mentioned in the first post not alot was not upgraded is some way, and cannot afford to wuickly get this fixed, as theres prolly not to much salvagable, so maybe try pick up a second hand RB26 and strap the 6boost and 35R on to it, its really the only way i can see myself staying in a skyline,

feel for you man

how is the bore of the cyl that dropped valve,i cant tell in pics that well is the R/H side of the bore scored of just lines from oil?

Edited by PaulosECR33

so maybe try pick up a second hand RB26 and strap the 6boost and 35R on to it, its really the only way i can see myself staying in a skyline,

Do this, peg power at ~300rwks and just enjoy the thing for a while

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
    • Thanks @Duncan Ride height is fine. I think it's almost stock tbh. Happy to share a pic. I don't actually have a regular mechanic as haven't lived in Sydney too long. Could you or anyone recommend any shops in Sydney?
    • You just need a different blue slip shop (preferably one you regularly use as a mechanic), and make sure the coil overs are as close as possible to standard height
    • yeah the sugar refining companies were pushing for the same in Oz originally, all fuels were going to have 10% ethanol to make them "cheaper" (noting, that the loss in l/100 might be greater than the decrease in price). I guess they won that fight in Canadia
×
×
  • Create New...