Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 886
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeah it does some crazy stuff and should probably be left alone

i've head ppl also say that you should take a boost source after the cooler and even from the manifold, i guess to counter the boost drop across the piping and cooler core

i've head ppl also say that you should take a boost source after the cooler and even from the manifold, i guess to counter the boost drop across the piping and cooler core

I wouldn't. What happens when you do for some reason get a massive pressure drop across the system? Most people (with a Hypergear turbo at least) will use an actuator that is rated close to their turbo's maximum efficiency. But if your turbo is efficient to 20psi and you have an actuator that is rated to 20psi hooked up to the manifold, and you get a 5psi pressure drop, then all of a sudden your turbo will be trying to push 25psi, which could lead to super-heating of the intake charge or outright turbo failure.

I would have the nipple as close to the turbo outlet as possible. Then at least if you get a pressure drop, you're just going to lose a bit of power and you will notice and get it sorted out.

yeah it does some crazy stuff and should probably be left alone

i've head ppl also say that you should take a boost source after the cooler and even from the manifold, i guess to counter the boost drop across the piping and cooler core

There are lots of fors and againsts.

Some people claim it using manifold causes boost spikes as you run a longer actuator line as well as a longer pressure source etc etc.

I used to run my old TD07S off the manifold, never had boost spike issues, and I actually had a reason... I had no BOV, there fore I wanted my pressure source to my wastegate in vacuum during gear shifts rather then seeing the huge pressure in the cooler pipes. This forced the wastegate shut whilst shifting, and made the car come back on boost hard again...

But on a nice little street setup, I'd have the pressure source as close to the turbo as possible.

Ok now I can smell oil through my air con, anyone ever had this, I can't find a leak but yeah kinda weird.

OK, pretty simple mate.

Your AC picks up fresh air from the skuttle panel (where the wipers are), anything that comes out of your bonnet would get sucked into there while your driving.

If your PVC is rooted and letting boost into the sump then you are probably pushing fumes or oil out of the dip stick. Furthermore if you have done a half job of your oil breather system (noting you dont have it running to your intake pipe anymore) it would also be doing the same thing. Otherwise if you have a little airfilter on the end of your rocker breathers it could be that too.

Yeah I thought that, it only really happens when I brake. One day was a really bad fuel smell the next it was oil, that's what had me poking around and I can't find anything. Guessing it's just another quirk.

Reading through all this and the other crap that youve posted all points to one thing

You shouldnt be around cars cause by the information or lack of you do give us you dont even

know wat the f**k your talkin about.

"DAMN I GOT NEW TYRES AND NOW MY GARAGE SMELLS LIKE NEW TYRES"

I mean your persistant ill give you that but seriously do you even know wat the f**k your on

about?

By the sound of it all just sell the car and buy a push bike...

We can then see threads of "How do I lube my chain" or "Im stuck in 15th gear HALP ME"

yep sorry but this is getting funny now....

Why are you not just taking your car to a decent mechanic/tuner, really these issues your having don't sound that hard to fix really....

He will prolly blame the tuner for not having a clean smelling car soon cause of this oil/fuel

vapour thats leaking out...

"YOUR TUNE IS SHIT, MY CAR IS STINKY NOW :( I DONT LIKE YOU!"

Really reminds of of all the halfwits at work that find the old point and blame game alot easier

then just saying "Yes I f**ked it by doin blah blah blah"

Just sell the f**kin thing and rid yourself from this site...You remind me of a smarter version

of La Bomba.

Chocco you never cease to amaze me with your completely useless posts. For some reason you feel that people aren't allowed to learn about the causes and fixes for their mechanical problems.

For those interested it appears some of the oil drains in the head were blocked.

Come on leave the poor guy alone, he is trying to learn.

lilcrash all I can suggest is if someone offers some advise that sounds reasonable then follow it and give some feedback/results <- Which you have actually been doing, apart form the odd delay.

Keep cracking on you will sort it out sooner or later.

alot of the delays in testing is because i get stuck into working on my wifes car and forget about my own problems. her car is still running perfectly without an afm and it runs like shit when i plug it in. im very confused how thats possible but yer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...