Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 886
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeah i meant i would be doing all the stuffing around while on the dyno. if its all caused by detonation then there is my answer, i didnt realize detonation could wear out rings. but it is good to know that the tune is to blame. so thanx *** *********** for all the problems you have caused, apart from the oil pouring out which was caused by the rings dieing due to prolonged detonation im guessing. that same detonation sound could be heard from the second i picked up my car, thats half the reason i called them 10 minutes after i picked it up, and never got a call back.

oh well new motor and new tuner, lets hope it all goes well.

25 psi was the problem not the tune per se. Please understand this FFS. Just a few secs of det at this boost level toasted your motor not 'prolonged det'.

If you go back far enough the issue was setting up boost control on an untuned stock ecu and had moments of uncontrolled boost. Was warned not to do this.

Advised to get engine management asap and to drive the car gently until tuned but he continued to set up boost control with different actuators with an untuned Nistune. There was audible knock while doing this. On more than one occasion.

Then finally took car to EFI for tuning.

IMO the damage was done prior and EFI were left with a sick engine to start with.

i wish i knew if it had been tuned at all, if they did actually tune it, im not sure if they actually did now that i think about it but thats not for discussion at this current moment, i would assume it was tuned with the 20psi dropping to 14 psi.

im sorry i that didnt realize that even boost cut was too high for engine to run at for the split second my hit it oh wait that has been happening for 3 years with the stock turbo.

i wish i knew if it had been tuned at all, if they did actually tune it, im not sure if they actually did now that i think about it but thats not for discussion at this current moment, i would assume it was tuned with the 20psi dropping to 14 psi.

im sorry i that didnt realize that even boost cut was too high for engine to run at for the split second my hit it oh wait that has been happening for 3 years with the stock turbo.

Yes, meaning it wasn't tuned for 20psi in the correct load cells. You put more load on the engine and add more boost without tuning for it then of course it's going to detonate.

I don't get your comment about the TP cut. If you increase the boost at all over factory then there is a chance it will detonate. This is why you get your AFR's checked when you do modifications like that, you don't just let it hit TP cut for 3 years thinking that means it is safe :blink:

I only ran the 18psi for a short drive, I thought it had the smaller actuator on, later confirmed that the smaller one was the second one in the box, until I took the car to the dyno I had the 7psi actuator on and wasn't revving past 3500/4000 as that's when it got to 10psi.. I swapped it about 30mins before I got to the dyno and I drove very sedately for those 20km.

And no I didn't have any audible knock as that only hit at 6000ish rpm. That all started on the way home, that's why I was concerned.

The boost cut issue wasn't something I tried to make happen, it normally made 11/12 psi. On cold mornings it would spike ocasionally without warning.

And before this gets turned against me too, yes every time it happened I turned it down a bit more.

Edited by lilcrash

I'm not sure, the machinist hasn't touched the block yet. I've had to put it off until I have more cash. Christmas has emptied my pockets. But with any luck I should have it back on the road and fully tuned for my birthday in march. If I decide to keep it. I'm wondering if someone would be interested in buying it before i even turn the key. :/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...