Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 886
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

no you don't

Absolutely do, I recon id get even down to 8.5-9 on a highway. Its tuned quite lean at cruise, as far as it can without being dangerous. Down side i can only use 98+ octane fuel. But even if i drive hard in traffic i get about 11-12 :-)

Alot of WOT and the fuel goes down as the speedo goes up lol

Absolutely do, I recon id get even down to 8.5-9 on a highway. Its tuned quite lean at cruise, as far as it can without being dangerous. Down side i can only use 98+ octane fuel. But even if i drive hard in traffic i get about 11-12 :-)

Alot of WOT and the fuel goes down as the speedo goes up lol

is your car stock std?

other than a complete std r33 with a tuneable ECU could you get 11-12 driving it hard in traffic..., unless your not driving it hard at all...

$1500 trade in value... wtf..?

thats pretty darn crap... strip it for parts

Absolutely do, I recon id get even down to 8.5-9 on a highway. Its tuned quite lean at cruise, as far as it can without being dangerous. Down side i can only use 98+ octane fuel. But even if i drive hard in traffic i get about 11-12 :-)

Alot of WOT and the fuel goes down as the speedo goes up lol

Did you turn O2 feedback off and lean it out at cruise? If you did that I could believe it, but with stock O2 feedback unless it is entirely highway kms with basically no boost Im sceptical.

I reckon lots of parts could be sold to make alot more than $1500

it all depends how much you owe on it...

you dont want to end up being in debt for more than the asset you have on hand is worth, thats just silly...

is your car stock std?

other than a complete std r33 with a tuneable ECU could you get 11-12 driving it hard in traffic..., unless your not driving it hard at all...

Did you turn O2 feedback off and lean it out at cruise? If you did that I could believe it, but with stock O2 feedback unless it is entirely highway kms with basically no boost Im sceptical.

No, i am being unfair in not mentioning im running map haltech e11v2 and im running a t04z so I dont get good boost till 3k and solid boost untill 4800 revs so its easy to not use alot :-)

A lot of my driving is main roads/highways but lots of hills... even in citys i still get under 12

I don't enjoy my $90 a week fuel bill. 15/16litres per 100km

yep, they are f**ked, having come from a magna wagon which does 11.9-12.3 in city, it was a rude shock..bit better with exhaust/cooler etc now..going to get it road tuned with nistune for sure...

cheers

darren

Hmmmm maybe you should have bought a second hand engine like everyone said last year.

BTW i got 515km out of my 33 without the light coming on :) Best i have done so far. Did a few off the clock runs as well (private property of course)

how would that affect my fuel usage?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Based off what you’ve said here, I think I’ve figured out a good bit of what I’ve done wrong -  So on the line going from the PCV valve to carbon canister, there’s a T joint that is pretty much right next to that lower port - I hadn’t noticed that the hose in the diagram was curved to attach onto the carb, so I was putting that line for the lower port onto the PCV line / carbon canister line instead. I’m going to have a flick through the manual again tomorrow and should hopefully find a diagram that’ll show me where that T joint should be connected to. Timing also 100% needs to be sorted out as well, should be able to tackle that tomorrow as well. Definitely feel like I should be on the right track now though. 
    • The screw is for idle (pilot circuit) mixture adjustment. Else, I'm confused ~ the diagram shows 2 carby ports, and the intake manifold port, but you're suggesting the "2nd port on the back of the carb that isn’t mentioned in the diagrams" ...yet, both carby ports are shown...que?... ...in any event, that port should be connected, but if not (like it is now), it's unlikely to cause a backfire out the carby (it would introduce false air and give you a fast/lean idle) ...sounds more like timing issues/spark plug wire routing responsible for the backfiring.    
    • That's fair, I can see both points. I get enthusiastic when I see the FS section has a new post and want to see what interesting thing someone is selling. Then I get deflated it's a bump of a 10 year old post. Ha ha
    • Couple of litres of moonshine from his southern cousins would do it...
×
×
  • Create New...