Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 886
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yep. Also know the feeling of trying to work out a problem that seems so simple to others, and yet in the end has nothing to do with what anyone said. Chocco, not everyone here is an expert on cars, give the guy a break.

Lilcrash, sorry if I missed it mate, but have you explained how you have your breathers plumbed in? I'm assuming you're using a catch can and it's not just the stock setup yeh?

I dont have the breathers plumbed in yet as I'm making a catch can to hide in my engine bay. I'm just a bit worried now, there was a lot of oil on the engine bay and my sump is over full.

I dont have the breathers plumbed in yet as I'm making a catch can to hide in my engine bay. I'm just a bit worried now, there was a lot of oil on the engine bay and my sump is over full.

Oh... So you just left them open? huh.gif Why not leave them with the factory setup until your catch can is ready? That's the same as leaving your filler cap off man.

Fix that. It could cause a fire... ninja.gif

Yeah at the same time I certainly dont go just changing things when I have no idea what I am doing.

I research and ask as many questions as possible before I do something. If its too hard and too risky then I get someone to do it. If its too expensive that way then maybe I shouldnt be doing it.

Think your saving money by fitting it yourself but then you waste more money getting it tuned multiple times as you find and fix issues.

I didn't have an option with the breather, there isn't anywhere to plumb it it unless I t it into the turbo oil drain, but that would be an even bigger problem, with every passing day I regret not just getting my turbo rebuilt to stock specs.

Lilcrash do you still have the stock turbo laying around along with all the stock pipping stuff?

Maybe you can solve all of this by sending the turbo back to Stao and getting the stock front housing fitted up.... Stealth SS1.

Honestly mate if you were local I'd happily help you sort this out :(

Don't worry what some ppl say. Just give it a go and you will learn a lot along the way. I do all the work (bar tuning) on both my cars and sometimes realise after, that i did it the wrong/hard/back to front way but in the end it's all a learning curve, a bit of fun and personal satisfaction!

I have some sort of high flow (gt3040) in standard housings. It doesn't make that much power (responsive 250rwkw) but is simple to work on and my engine bay looks 100% stock (even air box)

I didn't have an option with the breather, there isn't anywhere to plumb it it unless I t it into the turbo oil drain, but that would be an even bigger problem, with every passing day I regret not just getting my turbo rebuilt to stock specs.

Don't drive the car then man. It's not just an inconvenience, that's dangerous as you've already discovered.

Why is there nowhere to plumb it in, what intake pipe are you using? Just get a nipple welded onto the intake pipe and away you go, would cost like 50 bucks.

An even cheaper option is to get a brass nipple with maybe a 3/8 end and tap that into your intake pipe and put some sealant around it. Its only vacuum so as long as its sealed it won't blow out and it will be running fine.

Get that actuator on and as long as its performing to spec, I can almost guarantee you will get the performance you should.

Yer I've got the stock turbo hanging off the side of my coffee table (Toyota 3tgte).

Wouldn't that limit my power even more then it already is?

Yeah but it would fix your problem of stuff not being in the right place.

Why is there nowhere to plumb it in, what intake pipe are you using? Just get a nipple welded onto the intake pipe and away you go, would cost like 50 bucks.

Ultimately this is what you SHOULD do. Not to be a total c*nt but Im not satisfied telling you to do it will mean it gets done.

Your issue seems to be you have a lot of custom parts that arent hooked up right. Normally that happens without a general understanding of how your exact cars system works. You will need to familiarize yourself with every aspect of the cars setup in its stock form and how it works before you can start to chop and change stuff. You need to know your plumbing things properly and not running pipes and crap where they shouldnt be plumbed.

Example, your boost source plumbed to the powersteering vac port..

On the topic of brass nipples, get another smaller one which is the same size as your vacuum line and tap it into your hot pipe and run your boost source off that for your actuator/boost controller. This one has to be tapped in nicely and sealed up.

I don't have a spare car anymore, it's a custom made intake, no where to weld into. So no breather return until I make a new intake again ( number 4. And find a way to get a boost feed through a rubber hose.

Stao - it hasn't arrived yet

Edited by lilcrash

Drill a hole into the custom made intake and weld a fitting on??? Then connect the hose to that. Thats what I have done, I have a bov return and a breather return plumbed into a custom intake.

As GTScotT said, going back to all standard stuff is a good test to see if its a problem with something else or your modifications.

As a troubleshooting exercise can you list out exactly every modification you made to the standard setup?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
    • Steam valve seals are usually responsible for cold start smoke, it goes away once engine warmed up. Disconnect it let engine breathers and let it breath freely, see if problem goes away after a short drive. Also check to make sure engine oil drain pipe is not blocked or kinked. 
    • Haha thanks! Yea I'm moving over from 2x 1000cc jets pre throttle over to 6x 190cc direct port jets and 1x 500cc pre throttle jet.  Direct port comes with all the advantages you would expect, except that pre throttle does cool down IAT'S more. That's why my direct port nozzle placement is closest to the plenum as possible in the runners to allow the air more time to cool before being sucked in. I'm also putting that one 500cc pre throttle jet to help with more cooling. It's a hybrid system. There's a lot more advantages to moving over to a PWM solenoid with a constant pressure system vs my old PWM pump setup, but I'll get more into that once I'm done converting everything over. The ricer in me is excited to see SS tubing all over my manifold though!
    • Very cool, see what I did there? 🥲 Wild WMI setup, first I've seen where it's on each cylinder runner, usually I see a single jet pre throttle.
×
×
  • Create New...