Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I just put on order a whole bunch of goodies for my 34:

Garrett GTX3076R

Z32 AFM

Bosch 040 Fuel pump

Return Flow FMIC

Soon to come

Nistune board

Insert suggested injectors here (Sard 600?)

Im going to do the install myself with the help of a mate and Im trying to find if anyone has done a 3076 low mount with the return flow intercooler, Just looking for some pics so I can get an idea of what I'll need to do as far as the piping goes. The car is a daily so Its probably going to be a bit of a mission to get it done but Im sure it'll be worth it.

Cheers

S

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381709-gtx3076r-on-r34gtt/
Share on other sites

What size rear housing is the turbo? Internal or external gate? If your using the stock manifold, you'll need a 10mm steel spacer, to space the turbo of the manifold as it will foul.

Whats the car to be used for? Street driving?

Your power goal and the fuel it runs on will determine your injector sizes as a rough guide. At the power your making, you dont want to push the injector duty cycle past 80%.

Awesome info kitto it's a .82 housing internally gated I had heard about the spacer but wasn't sure. The dealer I bought it from is looking into that for me. I'm aiming at 320 kw in the future but not right away. main use is street driving occasionally spirited and I want to start doing some track days for a bit of fun

Ah ok, from what i have personally seen and been in. The .82 rear housing tends to be a bit laggy on an RB25. Especially if your not using an EBC.

However, the first RB25 was using a GT3076 not a GTX. This doesn't make a lot of difference at all, but just a slight amount. This engine was a non NEO engine aswell using BP98 making .347 Hub kW.

The second RB25 is a NEO engine, on E85, .63 rear housed GTX3076R making 368kW on the same hub dyno. Its Simon Michelmore's S14. He's had awesome results with the GTX3076R with a .63 rear housing

Both engines were also using steam pipe high mount manifolds which do make a difference.

Running lower boost pressure may cause the boost pressure to spike as the internal waste gate can't get rid of the large amounts of exhaust gas at lower boost levels.

It will do 320kW easily. What fuel are you going to use? E85 or BP98? This will choose your injector size.

NIStune - I like it!

i wouldnt count on making 320rwkw with an internal gate turbo on the stock manifold on 98. sure it happens, but most people fall well short. realistically you'll be limited to around 260-300rwkw depending on various factors. the standard manifold also makes the gtx3076 overkill compressor wise, better off with a standard gt3076.

as for injectors if you can find a set of nismos for sale at a decent price go for them. otherwise theres a few other bolt in options, plenty of info on here if you do a search.

as for bolting it onto the stock manifold, you'll need a 10mm spacer as said, along with longer studs, nuts and washers, custom dump, oil and water lines, cooler pipe mods and a custom intake pipe.

You actually need a 20mm spacer for the 3076's. The 3071's only need a 10mm spacer.

i wouldnt count on making 320rwkw with an internal gate turbo on the stock manifold on 98. sure it happens, but most people fall well short. realistically you'll be limited to around 260-300rwkw depending on various factors. the standard manifold also makes the gtx3076 overkill compressor wise, better off with a standard gt3076.

as for injectors if you can find a set of nismos for sale at a decent price go for them. otherwise theres a few other bolt in options, plenty of info on here if you do a search.

as for bolting it onto the stock manifold, you'll need a 10mm spacer as said, along with longer studs, nuts and washers, custom dump, oil and water lines, cooler pipe mods and a custom intake pipe.

No you dont.

You need a 10mm spacer and extended studs.

I have a 3076 .82 on my RB25, with a Blttz Return flow. the turbine outlet pipe needs to be extended about 220mm.

Heres a pic of my stock pipes modded to suit. (top pipe, you can see the extension welded on.

IMG00610-20110802-1710-1.jpg

DSCF0964.jpg

If you trim about 40mm off the stock manifold heat shield you can get that to slot back on too.

DSCF0962-1.jpg

And dont listen to anyone that says a .82 is laggy on an RB25. They dont know what they are talking about. You will love it to bits. Enjoy :)

Edited by gotRICE?

Im running the GTX3071 with .82 rear housing .60 front in second gear at 4000rpm the lil 25 really starts to boogey all the way up to 7500rpm i was worried bout the lag just like you were mate and i have no regrets bout the .82 its a great street setup its not hugely laggy but pulls like a freight train! :)

Still waiting to get some more info for you Lith but the head gasket leaked into number 5 on Friday while on the dyno. It will be another 4-5 weeks until I get it back on there. They were well into tuning by then so there could be some preliminary results to overlay with Mick_o's car when he gets back to the tuner.

Ill be running 98PULP, maybe avgas, shouldn't be too difficult for me to get. I will be getting an EBC (like the look of the AVC-R) down the track but might go with a boost tee or similar in the interim. Damn lack of funding!!

JonnoHR31, Is that a custom suction pipe or can you buy them or something similar?

Im actually not 100% sure lith but im pretty sure 21psi in 3rd gear is around 3500-3700 max and 4th gear is unknown mate my car is supposed to be hitting the rollers thursday so keep ya eyes peeled in my GTX3071 thread mate to check out my dyno sheet. Wolverine actually drove my car the other day and was of the opinion there was a little more to be had down low. So fingers crossed hes right

When do you get full boost in higher gears? I've been really interested in the difference in overall performance between a GTX3071R and a GT3076R :)

heres what i used for the piping mate :thumbsup: .'-

Suction line/air filter line

4'' - 3'' silicone reducer

3'' 90 degree elbow

3" 45 degree silicone bend

TURBO OUTLET LINE

A 2.5"-2" reduced silicone 90 degree bend

2 x 2.5" 45 degree bends

Thats pretty much all i used as well as a short piece of 1" pipe for my blow off valve plumback line and a piece of 3/4" for the rocker cover breather line :whistling:

Garrett GTX3076R

Z32 AFM

Bosch 040 Fuel pump

Return Flow FMIC

Soon to come

Nistune board

Insert suggested injectors here (Sard 600?)

Im going to do the install myself with the help of a mate and Im trying to find if anyone has done a 3076 low mount with the return flow intercooler, Just looking for some pics so I can get an idea of what I'll need to do as far as the piping goes. The car is a daily so Its probably going to be a bit of a mission to get it done but Im sure it'll be worth it.

Cheers

S

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...