Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I just put on order a whole bunch of goodies for my 34:

Garrett GTX3076R

Z32 AFM

Bosch 040 Fuel pump

Return Flow FMIC

Soon to come

Nistune board

Insert suggested injectors here (Sard 600?)

Im going to do the install myself with the help of a mate and Im trying to find if anyone has done a 3076 low mount with the return flow intercooler, Just looking for some pics so I can get an idea of what I'll need to do as far as the piping goes. The car is a daily so Its probably going to be a bit of a mission to get it done but Im sure it'll be worth it.

Cheers

S

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381709-gtx3076r-on-r34gtt/
Share on other sites

What size rear housing is the turbo? Internal or external gate? If your using the stock manifold, you'll need a 10mm steel spacer, to space the turbo of the manifold as it will foul.

Whats the car to be used for? Street driving?

Your power goal and the fuel it runs on will determine your injector sizes as a rough guide. At the power your making, you dont want to push the injector duty cycle past 80%.

Awesome info kitto it's a .82 housing internally gated I had heard about the spacer but wasn't sure. The dealer I bought it from is looking into that for me. I'm aiming at 320 kw in the future but not right away. main use is street driving occasionally spirited and I want to start doing some track days for a bit of fun

Ah ok, from what i have personally seen and been in. The .82 rear housing tends to be a bit laggy on an RB25. Especially if your not using an EBC.

However, the first RB25 was using a GT3076 not a GTX. This doesn't make a lot of difference at all, but just a slight amount. This engine was a non NEO engine aswell using BP98 making .347 Hub kW.

The second RB25 is a NEO engine, on E85, .63 rear housed GTX3076R making 368kW on the same hub dyno. Its Simon Michelmore's S14. He's had awesome results with the GTX3076R with a .63 rear housing

Both engines were also using steam pipe high mount manifolds which do make a difference.

Running lower boost pressure may cause the boost pressure to spike as the internal waste gate can't get rid of the large amounts of exhaust gas at lower boost levels.

It will do 320kW easily. What fuel are you going to use? E85 or BP98? This will choose your injector size.

NIStune - I like it!

i wouldnt count on making 320rwkw with an internal gate turbo on the stock manifold on 98. sure it happens, but most people fall well short. realistically you'll be limited to around 260-300rwkw depending on various factors. the standard manifold also makes the gtx3076 overkill compressor wise, better off with a standard gt3076.

as for injectors if you can find a set of nismos for sale at a decent price go for them. otherwise theres a few other bolt in options, plenty of info on here if you do a search.

as for bolting it onto the stock manifold, you'll need a 10mm spacer as said, along with longer studs, nuts and washers, custom dump, oil and water lines, cooler pipe mods and a custom intake pipe.

You actually need a 20mm spacer for the 3076's. The 3071's only need a 10mm spacer.

i wouldnt count on making 320rwkw with an internal gate turbo on the stock manifold on 98. sure it happens, but most people fall well short. realistically you'll be limited to around 260-300rwkw depending on various factors. the standard manifold also makes the gtx3076 overkill compressor wise, better off with a standard gt3076.

as for injectors if you can find a set of nismos for sale at a decent price go for them. otherwise theres a few other bolt in options, plenty of info on here if you do a search.

as for bolting it onto the stock manifold, you'll need a 10mm spacer as said, along with longer studs, nuts and washers, custom dump, oil and water lines, cooler pipe mods and a custom intake pipe.

No you dont.

You need a 10mm spacer and extended studs.

I have a 3076 .82 on my RB25, with a Blttz Return flow. the turbine outlet pipe needs to be extended about 220mm.

Heres a pic of my stock pipes modded to suit. (top pipe, you can see the extension welded on.

IMG00610-20110802-1710-1.jpg

DSCF0964.jpg

If you trim about 40mm off the stock manifold heat shield you can get that to slot back on too.

DSCF0962-1.jpg

And dont listen to anyone that says a .82 is laggy on an RB25. They dont know what they are talking about. You will love it to bits. Enjoy :)

Edited by gotRICE?

Im running the GTX3071 with .82 rear housing .60 front in second gear at 4000rpm the lil 25 really starts to boogey all the way up to 7500rpm i was worried bout the lag just like you were mate and i have no regrets bout the .82 its a great street setup its not hugely laggy but pulls like a freight train! :)

Still waiting to get some more info for you Lith but the head gasket leaked into number 5 on Friday while on the dyno. It will be another 4-5 weeks until I get it back on there. They were well into tuning by then so there could be some preliminary results to overlay with Mick_o's car when he gets back to the tuner.

Ill be running 98PULP, maybe avgas, shouldn't be too difficult for me to get. I will be getting an EBC (like the look of the AVC-R) down the track but might go with a boost tee or similar in the interim. Damn lack of funding!!

JonnoHR31, Is that a custom suction pipe or can you buy them or something similar?

Im actually not 100% sure lith but im pretty sure 21psi in 3rd gear is around 3500-3700 max and 4th gear is unknown mate my car is supposed to be hitting the rollers thursday so keep ya eyes peeled in my GTX3071 thread mate to check out my dyno sheet. Wolverine actually drove my car the other day and was of the opinion there was a little more to be had down low. So fingers crossed hes right

When do you get full boost in higher gears? I've been really interested in the difference in overall performance between a GTX3071R and a GT3076R :)

heres what i used for the piping mate :thumbsup: .'-

Suction line/air filter line

4'' - 3'' silicone reducer

3'' 90 degree elbow

3" 45 degree silicone bend

TURBO OUTLET LINE

A 2.5"-2" reduced silicone 90 degree bend

2 x 2.5" 45 degree bends

Thats pretty much all i used as well as a short piece of 1" pipe for my blow off valve plumback line and a piece of 3/4" for the rocker cover breather line :whistling:

Garrett GTX3076R

Z32 AFM

Bosch 040 Fuel pump

Return Flow FMIC

Soon to come

Nistune board

Insert suggested injectors here (Sard 600?)

Im going to do the install myself with the help of a mate and Im trying to find if anyone has done a 3076 low mount with the return flow intercooler, Just looking for some pics so I can get an idea of what I'll need to do as far as the piping goes. The car is a daily so Its probably going to be a bit of a mission to get it done but Im sure it'll be worth it.

Cheers

S

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...