Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 15.01.2015 at 11:09 AM, froggy88 said:

My 03 coupe started to do this about 8 months ago. I don't recall what error code it was throwing up (something about a faulty sensor?) but my mechanic went through the whole system and couldn't find anything wrong. They also did the reset procedure and the light came back on after about a day.

I did the ECU reset procedure and it hasn't come back on since!

Sorry for bringing it up but that problem usually occurs after sweeping, vacum cleaning under front seats either driver or passenger or just moving seats back and forward. Well known issue that causes one or few yellow SRS connectors under front seats.

You must disconnect the battery before you try to do anything with any parts of SRS system. Check all yellow connectors under both seats, unplug them, clean them up, make sure proper contacts achieved in between every connector male/female and that is it, you'll never see that problem again. Sorry once again if it was sorted already.

* reason is the age of our cars and special material japs used to plated those contacts in yellow connectors.

@Nicko_2010 Thats not necessarily anything to do with under the seats. It could be any number if sensor or as you say wire issues. Mine was the clock spring even though the signal was a seat belt warning light and I did all the checks before I even took it to a mechanic. Unfortunately you need someone with V35 diagnostics which will tell you exactly where the fault is. Some people are quoting $150 just to do that my guy charged me alot less.

I had the passenger side seat warning light a few years back, I had tried cleaning the connectors several times, using contact grease to prevent corrosion, cable tying the wires in place so they couldn't move.. each time after a few months the warning light re-occurred.  In the end I removed the pins from the connectors and soldered the pins onto the wires instead of just the crimp.  that was years ago now and I haven't had another occurrences of the fault.  I have had the clockspring go bad since then, but that threw a driver side airbag fault code, which was different to the passenger side seat.

  • 5 years later...

Guys; having run into this problem again many years after I first encountered I found one method that absolutely works every time whether its the slow flashing light or the fast flashing light on the V35 Airbag warning light.

1. Turn the key to the On position (do not start), wait for the Airbag light to go off(7 sec). Turn the key to the Off position within a second of the Airbag light going off. (& before it flashes).

Wait 4 seconds then turn the key to On as above.

2. Repeat the above 3 times - ie total of 4 times. 

3. After the 4th time -when you turn the key to the Off position Wait 3 sec then turn the key On again. Wait for the light to go out. Then switch Off

4. Wait only 2 sec then turn On again. Wait for the light to go out. Then switch off.

5. Wait only 1 sec. Turn On again. Wait for the light to go out. Turn the car off. Remove key from the ignition. Then put the keys back in and start the car.

I have used the other 2 methods listed on this forum and Sometimes they work sometimes they don't. This one works without fail.

  • Like 1
On 7/6/2022 at 3:08 PM, niZmO_Man said:

how the hell do you discover something like that? Maybe the person who programmed it put it in a tech bulletin somewher

Yeah, possibly I read it somewhere years ago. But this time I just tried it without checking or looking. Also after you do these resets heaps of times you try anything!. A couple of sites do the 3sec then 2sec wait in the off position, so to me it just made sense to go that one step further!. 

On 08/06/2022 at 5:47 PM, sonicii said:

I tried this at least once & it usually works, but the last time it didn't. Thats why I tried the method above. I've never seen this before..Cheers 

It will only work if the fault that caused the light is no longer occurring.  This process doesn't actually fix anything, it just clears the current SRS codes.  If the fault still exists, it will just trigger the code again when the ignition is turned on next.

On 08/06/2022 at 6:02 PM, sonicii said:

It will only work if the fault that caused the light is no longer occurring.  This process doesn't actually fix anything, it just clears the current SRS codes.  If the fault still exists, it will just trigger the code again when the ignition is turned on next.

Yeah I know. So far so good though..

I had the exact same thing happen to my 96 R33 GTST. I tried the steps above and it only slowed down the blinking. I did find another method and it fixed it, even after starting the car several times after the fix. These steps are as follows:

Leave the driver door open when doing this. Put the key in and turn it to the ON position, then quickly press the door jamb button 10x. Turn the key to the OFF position, wait 3-5 seconds and then start the car. The airbag light should go off completely. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...