Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi every1,

Im having issues with weak radio reception in my r34.

Done some research and found this thread - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/250936-weak-radio-signal/

Just wanted to clarify, on my stock harness I have a blue cable with 'Ant control" on it, that isnt connected to anything.

Is this the wire which I should be soldering in to an antenna wire on the back of my head unit (Im pretty sure there was one).

Just dont want to screw anything up and plan on giving it a go tomorrow.

Have taken a picture of the harness so u can see the wire im talking about.

Thanks heaps in advance.

post-86021-0-75429300-1320489562_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382164-r34-gtt-poor-radio-reception/
Share on other sites

yes follow the instructions and you be right

but note

GTT and R34 in general have horrible radio reception,

tint affects it- some are ceramic, or metallized

landscape does, hills. mtns, builidngs

mutipath in citys does, reflection off metal objects causes mutiple paths of signal to hit the receiver causing drop outs

nissans horrble idea of diversity antennnas in the glass , not a good ground plane

most of the time the hack who installs the jap to oz signal box cuts the wires and tapes them up. not buying the right jack to interface it. thats the first place to check radio reception issues on JDM cars- NISSAN for sure

and if your still having issues check behind the c pillar sail panels in the rear , sometime the antenna wires into the rear glass are unplugged ? or cut

and now with DAB broadcasts you need a better antenna then factory . I use a amplified shark fin(smaller then you pinky finger long). tiny one for DAB tv and radio, works a treat and not horrble looking like some fins

hope that helps before you rip your hair out

  • 2 years later...

Hi guys,

Apologies for the thread revival.

I have installed a Blaupunkt New York 800 in my R34.

I've used an aeropro (from Repco) ISO to Nissan adaptor.

Anyway... the blue wire (ant control) as shown on the OPs pic - where do I actually connect this to on this particular HU?

On a slightly unrelated question - is there some sort of auto dim function (wire) for the HU when I turn on the headlights? As I find the HU way too bright during the night and am forced to manually dim the unit via software settings.

the link to the thread from OP mentions having an adaptor to the antenna and an extra single pin plug. I currently have this adaptor from JB hifi

http://jcbid.com/images2/9/3/6/7/2//full/SCOSCHE-NDAB-NISSAN-DIVERSITY-ANTENNA-ADAPTER.jpg

the original connection goes into the right side female end, and the red plug goes into the antenna hole in my head unit. What do i put into the remaining end?

My reception is dodgy and scatty :(

  • 2 months later...

Recently replaced the windscreen in R34 GTT 4 door and now my radio reception pretty poor.

I believe the aerial is in the windscreen but my new screen does not have one apparently.

what is the best solution?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...