Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The car is running a MAP sensor and runs 26-28psi and no BOV. I want to throw an atmo BOV on it but I honestly don't know if any leak boost more then others or are better then others.

I was thinking HKS Supersequential thingy as from memory I recall it uses boost to hold the thing closed...or perhaps a Trust Type R...but I honestly dont know if one is a better option then the other

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382233-yes-a-genuine-bov-question/
Share on other sites

Think he's talking about ones that leak on idle. this is what most do and if its not plumbed back can cause alot of the issues people have with atmospheric bov's

As far as i know all bov's use a vac line to the top to hold them closed under boost and then aids the spring when off throttle to open the valve and release the pressure.

As long as the bov will handle the pressure, any bov should do the job but why not just plumb it back and save yourself some trouble?

Think he's talking about ones that leak on idle. this is what most do and if its not plumbed back can cause alot of the issues people have with atmospheric bov's

As far as i know all bov's use a vac line to the top to hold them closed under boost and then aids the spring when off throttle to open the valve and release the pressure.

As long as the bov will handle the pressure, any bov should do the job but why not just plumb it back and save yourself some trouble?

If its map based you wont have the problems that an afm system has. I just swapped over to a map based computer. My stock bov/recirculation valve is still atmo (will be plumbed back eventually to help gearshift lag) and there are no dramas at all. No more stalling, no more rich spots after gear changes and no more soot all over the back of my car.

If its map based you wont have the problems that an afm system has. I just swapped over to a map based computer. My stock bov/recirculation valve is still atmo (will be plumbed back eventually to help gearshift lag) and there are no dramas at all. No more stalling, no more rich spots after gear changes and no more soot all over the back of my car.

Yeah i just assumed we were talking MAF setup lol

You can't run a HKS super squeeker as they are possibly the most gayest thing since Elton John!

Trust Type R are the goods, can't really go wrong :)

Hehe, I liked the sound of the HKS jobbie. Better then the sneezers out there :) Ran one for years :) Half the fun was so many people hated the sound of it. :whistling:

The thing with the Trust Type R ones is I have seen several on cars that have problems. Partly because like a gate they have diaphragms in them and they are sometimes worn and torn...but also they seem to have high spring pressure so dont open at low boost and seem to cause a bit of flutter

...but also they seem to have high spring pressure so dont open at low boost and seem to cause a bit of flutter

you aren't running low boost....and it's fluttering now so it's not like you aren't used to it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The team at OBD2 Australia are pretty good, shoot them an email and ask them. I've dealt with them before for work stuff. I'd be shocked if it didn't work, so long as Consult can activate the ABS. But you might need to use KLine for it which would be the stopper, as I don't think that piece does KLine comms.
    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
×
×
  • Create New...