Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

With Nats at Wakefield park next year, I thought it might be a good idea to erode some of the home team advantage.

So with the fact it looks like we won't have a MS round in Feb next year at this point I thought I might try and find a day at Wakefield that has some spare slots and head up for a "sightseeing" trip..

As Wakefield have not listed their Calendar yet (and ours is not finalized yet) this might not even be possible but if people are interested I will start investigating it.

Cheers

M

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/383270-eoi-for-wakefield-early-2012/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Rechecked the location, some drive. So it's not really the timing for me so much as if I want to drive up there twice.

Aiming to plan a family visit to Sydney for the Nats.

I'll have a look at some high country routes over a day or two - if I can find something interesting without too much(any :dry: ) dirt road then maybe.

If anyone has experience, input always appreciated.

So after a few discussions we are aiming for the March 24th round of the SAU NSW at Wakefield.

will prob try for a EC run at some point next year as well, as a warm up for superlap.

Woohoo...we can show you dirty mexicans how its done...except most of our cars are still in bits...or will be in bits by march lol

Having spent the past weekend at Wakefield, I'll give it another go (if there isn't a national round on the same time) the total drive time from my place (Yarra Valley) to Goulburn via the ring road and Hume was just over 6 and a half hours, and about 750k's all up. For most of the way there you sit on 110 kp/h.

I recommend the "Paragon Cafe" for food as well, good food and reasonable pricing.

I'd not be using a trailer to get to Goulburn, don't have cruise control so not looking forward to 7hr drive on the freeway - noise, fines due to speed creep etc.

Would anyone be interested in taking a longer scenic route to get there? My link could also look at different routes between king valley and Kiewa.

The only time I've driven round these roads is for the snow with family in the car.

It will be a long/tiring drive...but quite fun for a lot of it

all the way through the Nat park is very slow (tourists with campervans etc)

you can bypass Cooma and go the back way, but there are some un-paved roads etc

edit - here is the Short cut

http://maps.google.com.au/maps/ms?msa=0

when I get the new car I will take it for a drive down there (been meaning to go fishing anyway)

and let you know what the roads are like

Thanks for the offer, hope the car and fishing work out well but please don't go out of your way on my account.

If no one is interested in joining me, I'll just play it by ear, no planning required, set off early and :whistling:

I was brought up in the UK between the Lake District, Yorkshire Dales and Pennines so I'm used to leap frogging tourists - while avoiding bikers screaming the other way, no mean feat when it was a guttless 1.3 astra.

BTW google link didn't work, but I'll be doing more research nearer the time.

40 cars max

4 groups usually or 5 depending on how many noobs

Sessions either 13 or 10 mins depending on group numbers so one session per hour with 2-3 mins for cool down lap and time to get off the track

No lunch break

Timing yes usually but will be confirmed with price etc when the 2012 regs come out which I am expecting any time now

Food mmm, well I go into town to the Paragon Cafe. It's 8 mins from the track. There is food available there but it can be a bit touch and go depending on what you feel like. Paragon though is always a safe bet or even any of the other shops on the main road in town. You'll always get parking outside your shop of choice on the main street so don't stress about that, there's heaps better parking than in Shep not that it's bad there. So if you want something from in town after your session drive straight to town (one road, 80 zone good for cool down anyway) get food then come back and you'll have a small break left before the next of your sessions

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers)
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
×
×
  • Create New...