Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 125
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm sure it works ok...just prefer the idea of scaling the load points by manifold pressure x rpm, eg max 10psi boost, so scale the load points from say -14.7psi to +14.7psi

that way I know what I am looking at in regards to setting up a target AFR map, or even just punching in a rough timing base map (will be road tuning a lot so will be tricky to hold a steady state load at high rpm)

Is that even possible to do? The load scales are arbitrary, you can't accurately represent boost or vacuum with it. It's simply a theoretical calculation done by the ECU based on several other factors.

At least that's how I understand it to work in the Nissan world, I assumed other ECU's would use a similar theory?

I found that Emanage Ultimate are not to bad especially in an auto as piggy backs are a bit limited. I ended up getting an Emanage Ult with proper harness to suit rb25det for under 900 via ebay ( just look at for the american sales as they are cheaper ) and that was new with warranty.

... because 100% load on a 250cc motorbike will be way different to 100% load on a 600rwhp 1jz powered commodore ute - I'm sure it works ok...just prefer the idea of scaling the load points by manifold pressure x rpm, eg max 10psi boost, so scale the load points from say -14.7psi to +14.7psi

You realise 14.7psi on a 1JZ Commodore ute and 14.7psi on say a 1EFTE Corolla are also way different? ;)

Fwiw, if you are doing a reasonable amount of work with a car and suspect you will have it for a while - seriously I don't think you should skimp on the ECU, especially if you anticipate learning.

I personally found the G4 Link software quite intuitive , there is a LOT of adjustability which can mean a lot to track down and keep an eye on - but with tuning ignorance isn't bliss IMHO. The help system is pretty good, and again its worth getting a good look over what there is going on and what needs to be considered.

I've done a reasonable amount of playing around with a GReddy E-Manage Ultimate and they seem pretty good, albeit being a pita not running on Windows 7 systems (well, last time I tried to install it on one).

I've tuned an NA Honda on E85 to make >190kw using one and it drives more or less like stock and makes the numbers, so they can do the job - there is the bonus that the factory closed loop, diagnostic and knock systems remain in place as well.

On the down side, you end up (whether you like it or not) getting well familiar with how the ECU you are signal intercepting for does its thing and have to/should leave a margain of error you may not need to worry so much about with if you had full say on what is actually doing.

They are quite easy to set up, just make sure you understand what is actually happening when you tinker with whatever you go for as the potential for fail is high.

Ive had one before...wasn't a huge fan, as you are forever fighting the standard ecu.

Yeah I don't like them as a preference - but they'd be one of the cheapest options on the list. Other things in a similar price range will likely be other interceptors which will have similar issues, or something which doesn't have "the whole package" included and likely to have extra costs and work involved in getting a fully functional solution which eats into the value for money imho.

I've been most impressed with Link G4 Atom as a semi-budget solution, still a quite powerful ECU - and sounds more than capable of what you are after by the looks of it.

Ye I realise the airflow is different etc, its just the way I like to look at the maps, seems to sit with my brain better lol

as for the EMU, a lot of toyota guys have had success with them, as the JZ ecu's dont have all the weird protection crap the RB25 ecu does (r&r etc)

You are right, they are easy to setup, I think my issue was (on the RB25) was 740cc injectors and a Z32 + larger turbo, I just dont think the EMU could hack the changes, It went quite well with the standard injectors and MAF though

The JZ being map based and having just a simple 1Bar fuel cut and knock retard may work quite well.

Wont be going crazy with mods, maybe 2J 440cc injectors for stock turbo E85 goodness.

Want I want to do is max the potential for bolton's while running standard boost on the standard turbos, so instead of upping the boost to make power (and probably have another turbo let go) I will leave the boost standard and tweak the tune for more power.

Sounds silly I know, but for longevity (track work etc) the less boost the better.

Hope that makes sense.

Obviously even an Emanage blue (which can be had for $380 with inj and ign looms) would do the job nad would be piss easy to use...but it won't really teach me enough about proper tuning, simply adding 1 or 2 degrees on top of the standard maps and pulling a bit of fuel from a very rich top end, won't learned me in complete in's and outs.

I really should get myself on one of the Haltech/Wolf tech nights that are held every so often

as for the EMU, a lot of toyota guys have had success with them, as the JZ ecu's dont have all the weird protection crap the RB25 ecu does (r&r etc)

You are right, they are easy to setup, I think my issue was (on the RB25) was 740cc injectors and a Z32 + larger turbo, I just dont think the EMU could hack the changes, It went quite well with the standard injectors and MAF though

My EMU is running perfectly with 1000's on e85 so it can definitely work well. EMU can also get rid of the airflow cuts etc too. I found its good to learn with as the stock ecu esentially runs everything from the start allowing you to tweak fuel then timing. There was one with universal harness in the for sale section a while back for $400.

I do agree with Lithium, the link looks the pick and I will probably be upgrading to the G4 one day, just for the electronic throttle and cam control.

How does the emanage blue rate....bang for buck? I do recall trent running an Angry SR20 with one, but cannot remember if he liked how it went or not

If I just wanted 440cc injectors to run E85...from memory they can only add fuel and not pull fuel out yeah?

I, would love to go a plugin Dan, but no-one lists the JZA70 (new car) as a plugin.

But you are right, I really think I should get the best possible..even if it means waiting 6 months or what ever it takes

I, would love to go a plugin Dan, but no-one lists the JZA70 (new car) as a plugin.

But you are right, I really think I should get the best possible..even if it means waiting 6 months or what ever it takes

I am pretty sure EFI's 1jz are all auto(Not 100% sure) but talk it out with Dan and Sean(EFI Tuner) Sean was pretty much the person who convinced me to go Wolf with the GTR.

http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-aemversion2ecupnpforsupra1jz-gte.php

Stumbled across this just now, price is certainly good.

Not sure too many mobs in aus would be familiar with them though.

The Same guys do a plugin patch harness for both the EMS Stinger and the EMS 6860 (little more expensive)

So many differing opinions, but all saying the same thing

So I will up my budget and wait a while longer...who knows maybe even a super rare jza70 pfc will pop up cheap.

ERD Dan spoke to wolf for me, said they (wolf) are happy to create a plugin harness for me, that to me says a lot, and actually surprised me a bit that they would be willing to do it for a single car. I'm sure a few of the other ECU manufactures would do the same I just never looked into it before.

1 thing I have learnt from having a power fc and a wolf..... save time and money go the best option you can go within reason... I regret going the power fc over just spending the money for the ecu.

if we can reliably make well over 900hp from a PFC.... what shortcoming did you find that we didnt? question not criticism.

if we can reliably make well over 900hp from a PFC.... what shortcoming did you find that we didnt? question not criticism.

1. 0 aux outputs

2. inability to do wheel speed over boost

3. inability to do windscreen wiper speed over wheel speed over TPS over engine temp

4. inability to do multi level rev limit

5. it's not red

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...