Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have followed this thread before making my mind up on a pair of turbos to go on a RB28. I have back to back results on same car/dyno with -5 (with HKS 2530 turbine housing) and GTX2863 (Machined -5 front housing with HKS2530 turbine housing).

Unfortunately there is a problem with boost drop at high rpm (which I believe has nothing to do with turbos) which does hide true potential but GTX turbos makes more power on lower boost than the -5 as one would expect.

I would like to see GTX2867 results either on a 26 or 28. Has anyone done that?

I have followed this thread before making my mind up on a pair of turbos to go on a RB28. I have back to back results on same car/dyno with -5 (with HKS 2530 turbine housing) and GTX2863 (Machined -5 front housing with HKS2530 turbine housing).

Unfortunately there is a problem with boost drop at high rpm (which I believe has nothing to do with turbos) which does hide true potential but GTX turbos makes more power on lower boost than the -5 as one would expect.

I would like to see GTX2867 results either on a 26 or 28. Has anyone done that?

Dyno sheet post up would help more, you might be experiencing a couple of things how big is your exhaust system what's the smallest id.

headwork/cams fitted?

Your compressor wheel might be pushing more air than the turbine can handle "choking" which is my only fear with using this turbo as revs climb and power increases turbine wheel will struggle to discharge it all.

Anyone seen GTX2860's with oem .42 compressor covers with .64 exhaust housings?

I have a feeling they would hit the 600 horsepower mark at the wheels and be the most responsive thing out there that's my guesstimate especially on a 2.8!

  • Like 1

:P

Friday!

So what's happening on Friday?? Tell me you are mounting a pair of 2867 in to a RB28 :D

Skids, I will get the dyno sheets up soon.

I wasn't clear on my last post, the boost drop on high RPM was an issue before fitting GTXs on.

Smallest ID would be 70mm on the front pipes but there are two 70mm pipes merging in to 80mm. Rest of the exhaust system is bigger than 80mm and no cat. Fully ported head. Cams are 270 duration, 10.80 lift.

I doubt it is the turbine side choking as the GT-RS uses similar size turbine with a larger compressor wheel than GTX286X variants.

So what's happening on Friday?? Tell me you are mounting a pair of 2867 in to a RB28 :D

Skids, I will get the dyno sheets up soon.

I wasn't clear on my last post, the boost drop on high RPM was an issue before fitting GTXs on.

Smallest ID would be 70mm on the front pipes but there are two 70mm pipes merging in to 80mm. Rest of the exhaust system is bigger than 80mm and no cat. Fully ported head. Cams are 270 duration, 10.80 lift.

I doubt it is the turbine side choking as the GT-RS uses similar size turbine with a larger compressor wheel than GTX286X variants.

2867's in a 3.0. Not mine, Daz's.

Merging into an 80 mm? Get rid of that! Bigger

Because the RS's uses the same hot side, doesn't make it correct. The rear is too small on them!

  • Like 1

So what's happening on Friday?? Tell me you are mounting a pair of 2867 in to a RB28 :D

Skids, I will get the dyno sheets up soon.

I wasn't clear on my last post, the boost drop on high RPM was an issue before fitting GTXs on.

Smallest ID would be 70mm on the front pipes but there are two 70mm pipes merging in to 80mm. Rest of the exhaust system is bigger than 80mm and no cat. Fully ported head. Cams are 270 duration, 10.80 lift.

I doubt it is the turbine side choking as the GT-RS uses similar size turbine with a larger compressor wheel than GTX286X variants.

^what he said,

80mm is not big enough would definitely choke top end with -5's or bigger.

read my last couple posts explaining wheel sizes.

Thanks. I do understand what you say about the exhaust. I have replaced front pipe and the full exhaust - no difference. I know of two cars cracking over 500kw with similar spec exhaust systems - steady boost curve all the way. I suspect it is the stock bov ruining it for me.

Anyhow, on to better stuff. Here are the dyno graphs.

2014 = -5

2015 = GTX

_____________________________________________________________________

post-48495-0-59422300-1435280948_thumb.jpg

post-48495-0-44524800-1435280964_thumb.jpg

post-48495-0-25756900-1435280975_thumb.jpg

post-48495-0-01737900-1435280993_thumb.jpg

Edited by Ecozile

Thanks. I do understand what you say about the exhaust. I have replaced front pipe and the full exhaust - no difference. I know of two cars cracking over 500kw with similar spec exhaust systems - steady boost curve all the way. I suspect it is the stock bov ruining it for me.

Anyhow, on to better stuff. Here are the dyno graphs.

2014 = -5

2015 = GTX

_____________________________________________________________________

Nothing wrong with the stock BOV.

Here is a direct back to back on my own car

Green line is GT -RS's, split dumps, HKS front pipes and a kakimoto full mega N1 cat back.

Pink line is -5's, Tomei bell mouth dumps and a twin 3 inch exhaust.

Smaller turbos, lower boost, more power everywhere.

E85-5sVSE85GTRSs_zps75866719.jpg

Those -5 lines are identical to mine. 20psi by around 4700-4800 rpm. (I have the HKS -5s)

Are you running E85?

I have Tomei Bell mouth dumps and a single 3.5inch exhaust.

Edited by The Mafia

Nothing wrong with the stock BOV.

Here is a direct back to back on my own car

Green line is GT -RS's, split dumps, HKS front pipes and a kakimoto full mega N1 cat back.

Pink line is -5's, Tomei bell mouth dumps and a twin 3 inch exhaust.

Smaller turbos, lower boost, more power everywhere.

E85-5sVSE85GTRSs_zps75866719.jpg

hey Piggaz, what changed in your setup to get you from 420 to your 467 was it just the cams added lift or mostly boost?

hey Piggaz, what changed in your setup to get you from 420 to your 467 was it just the cams added lift or mostly boost?

Cams 260 at 10.85

Head

Went from 86.5 to 87 mm Pistons. My oil pump decided to shatter. And a bit more boost.

For comparison when tuning in the new setup, it went 441 at the same boost level with more mid range. Then the boost controller got turned on.

Extra boost didn't net much in the way of peak numbers (30 kW or so), the midrange however was totally different. 75 kW through the middle iirc from controller off to the full effort.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...