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Blitz Dual Sbc Spec S Issues

GTSPWR

By GTSPWR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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GTSPWR Apprentice

GTSPWR

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi, I have just installed the above boost controller.

It workes fine in 'OFF' mode (Standard boost) and i can get throught the whole rev range of the car but as soon as i choose a aftermarket setting and hit anything above atmospheric pressure, the car coughs, the hicas light flashes and it feels like it dies. Switch it back to 'OFF' and it boosts no problem.

The boost is set using a range of 0 - 100. when i set it to 0. I can boost with no problems (as 0 is standard) but once you go up a touch, like to say 5, it doesnt like it.

(For the pressure signal to the controller, I tapped into the line that goes from the fuel press reg to the manifold.)

Any suggestions?

Edited by GTSPWR
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GTSPWR Apprentice

GTSPWR

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Posted

My thoughts exactly. either wa iy i tried it 't'd where the standard gauge is connected to the manifold, and i get the same result. still dont understand why it wont boost past standard. additionally when i boost in off mode the standard gauge shows 6ish psi but the ebc shows .72 which would be closer to 10 psi???

badhairdave Proficient

badhairdave

Posted
Posted

where are you getting your power and earth from? I ask because hicas gives no shit about about a lot of things, boost pressure being one of them. However, if you're spliced into an earth trigger with a solenoid stuttering away giving an odd ball signal to the ecu......

Have you completely removed the factory boost control and blocked off any loose hoses?

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

The line between the FPR and the manifold is fine to use but the reason you DO NOT use it is because if that line pops off, or somehow you develop a leak to your boost sensor or something goes wrong with the boost sensor, you will loose pressure on your fuel rail and the engine will run lean and detonate.

There are many places. The best place is between the actuator and the hot pipe. From the manifold, you have the delay of pressure from the turbo to the throttle to the manifold. Between the actuator and the hotpipe is best because this is the pressure closest to the turbo so your boost controller can read the boost and control it as necessary. It might practically do jack shit but in my mind it feels like the closest point so to help prevent boost spike, get the source close and respond quick.

Moodles2 Grand Master

Moodles2

Posted
Posted

Spends alot of money on boost controller. Spend $0 on engine management. You may need to rethink priorities. Anything above 10psi the stock ECU will just go into R&R "Rich and Retard"

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