Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering what are some fo the easiest ways people do this the way Im thinking of is undo that drain plug on the side of the block (rb25 so its not that hard to get to) then let all the coolant drain out of it then getting a hose and flush from the top radiator hose until all the water is clear coming out of the drain plug and this way all the water would come out and not be in the block. What do you guys think?

get yourself a flushing tool and an air compressor. Thats by far the best way. remove the radiator hoses from the radiator only, plug it into the bottom hose, attach the air line, hook up the garden hose and turn the garden hose on, it will back flush the water and every now and then you give it a hit with the air while its going to move any hard to get to stuff inside the block

Just wondering what are some fo the easiest ways people do this the way Im thinking of is undo that drain plug on the side of the block (rb25 so its not that hard to get to) then let all the coolant drain out of it then getting a hose and flush from the top radiator hose until all the water is clear coming out of the drain plug and this way all the water would come out and not be in the block. What do you guys think?

Just make sure you get all the tap water out of it. Also consider the heater core - they like to rust.

Im fitting a new radiator so might aswell do a full engine flush.

:thumbsup:

Yeah its called radiator flush and you buy it from a shop. :thumbsup:

:yucky: radiator flush normally sucks BUT if you use it while your old radiator is in the car (and don't mind throwing out your old radiator) then it's a great idea. The old radiator will act as a filter to catch all the gunk the radiator flush washes out of your motor.

Flushing tool works superbly, problem is if the car is cold/the thermostat closes while you're flushing causing pressure to build up and blow the tool/air-line/water-line out, so be sure to remove it before-hand.

I change mine by draining and re-filling it with water a few times, then adding pre-mix and dropping it again, then topping it up.

Use engine flush with the heater on full heat (this will flush out the heater core), drain radiator, refill radiator with water, let it idle awhile again with the heater on full, shut down and let cool, remove radiator, put in new radiator, fill with coolant, fill overflow with new coolant, let it idle up to temp with the radiator cap off and the heater on full heat (leaving the cap off will assist in removing air from the system), top up as required, after 5 minutes put the cap on and Bobs your uncle.<BR><BR>Check again when cold.<BR><BR>

wouldn't that restrict flow (especially once it has started to catch crap and get blocked up), thus putting more stress on your water pump as well as making the car more prone to overheating issues? or is it only used after flushing the system?

sounds like it was a good idea that was only half thought out. fuel filters and oil filters don't suffer from this problem because they are designed with a much greater surface area of filter membrane. having said that, a really dirty fuel filter can causing leaning issues.

filters are a very good idea after a cooling system flush, any sediment sitting in the blocks water jackets is now loosened up and is just waiting to block the tubes in the radiator,the filter i use is conical shaped and would take a lot of crud to cause any restriction

The easiest way i found is to not use tap water at all , as it will just keep rusting the block over and over as once you flush with it you cant get it out easily .

Best option is to use demineralised water to flush .eg drain radiator then fill with demin water , run car with heater on , repeat this method until you have clean clear demin water . i use 12 litres for this .

Then you can drain radiator once more and add concentrated unmixed NULON fluid to the radiator , which will mix with the clean demin water in the block .

Takes longer with a bit more effort , with near perfect results

The easiest way i found is to not use tap water at all , as it will just keep rusting the block over and over as once you flush with it you cant get it out easily .

Best option is to use demineralised water to flush .eg drain radiator then fill with demin water , run car with heater on , repeat this method until you have clean clear demin water . i use 12 litres for this .

Then you can drain radiator once more and add concentrated unmixed NULON fluid to the radiator , which will mix with the clean demin water in the block .

Takes longer with a bit more effort , with near perfect results

. . . and keep oxygen out of the system

Yeah usually I just use a normal garden hose and a flush kit that is sold on any auto parts store.

Require you to run your car with the heater on and do not use the t plastic hose connector that's included in the kit.

I advice buying a metal or copper one.

Should not be more then 20 bucks far every thing needed minus the fluid.

wouldn't that restrict flow (especially once it has started to catch crap and get blocked up), thus putting more stress on your water pump as well as making the car more prone to overheating issues? or is it only used after flushing the system?

sounds like it was a good idea that was only half thought out. fuel filters and oil filters don't suffer from this problem because they are designed with a much greater surface area of filter membrane. having said that, a really dirty fuel filter can causing leaning issues.

It takes 30 seconds to remove/clean/reinstall, small amout of preventitive maintanance, I usually do it when I check my fluid levels, come on guys, its simple maintanance, people spend more time wiping of spilled coolant from when they check fluid levels.

Or dont get one which will result all the crap that comes out, which is alot, getting stuck in the radiator and other areas of your cooling system.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Grind them off, drill them out. Repair any rust on the other side. Start again from scratch.
    • Big R34 GTR parts cleanout. I have a lot of stuff collected over the last 14 years and my missus is giving me hard time. Make my life easy.   Nismo GT carbon fibre diffuser fins (discontinued)  NEW  $2900 Garage Defend Stingray canards carbon fibre  NEW  $1300  Top Secret G Force carbon fibre front diffuser  NEW  $2000  Haltech Elite 2500  NEW  $2500  Haltech Platinum Pro R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Apex’I power FC D'jetro + hand controller R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Nissan OEM BNR34 ECU  USED   $1000  HKS EVC 6  USED  $600  Blitz dual SBC ID boost controller.  USED  $350  TRE 255 LPH Fuel pump  NEW  $100  Fujitsubo  Super Ti exhaust  USED  $2700  Tomei Expreme Ti exhaust  USED  $2000  Trust stainless steel front pipe  USED  $1000  Apex’I super suction kit  USED $400  BC BR coilovers  USED  $600  Hardrace front upper camber kit. USED  $300  Garret 2860-5 turbos –  one good, one needs reco USED  $1000  Nissan OEM Toshiba MFD Screen replacement  NEW  $450  Nissan OEM BNR34 Series II front passenger seat  USED (mint) $5000   Nissan OEM BNR34 front bar in TV2  USED  $1000  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler  USED  $900  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler (painted)  USED  $900  Nismo front indicator (clear) USED  $80 Nissan OEM BNR34 radiator  USED $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 turbos  USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intercooler USED  $800  Nissan OEM BNR34 front swaybar   USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intake pipes   USED  $400    Also have a square set of uber rare Volk CE28n in 19*10 +22. Not really keen to sell these but make a high enough offer and maybe I will. If you don't know how much these usually sell for don't bother.   PM for pics.  Pickup Chadstone VIC or postage at buyer's expense.
    • Thanks Mate, I did know you could do that but i know there is a pump out there that you can bolt on and it all lines up. I was told about it and then forgot the model, I figure if i am pulling it apart i will just put a new one on 
    • You can also remove the veins from the HICAS portion of your existing pump. 
    • Trying to swap the rear subframe on my R34 and can't remove the L-shaped stay brackets between the front subframe mounts and the sill/chassis. I'm in the UK so rust is a problem. I've used loads of WD40 and then Tunap 103 for days beforehand. I backed off the bolts forward a bit, backward a bit repeatedly for ages to try and avoid snapping. They have all moved a few full turns. The one I've spent most time on has come loose and I can turn with fingers, and it will pull down and push up 2-3mm. But it won't come out. I can tighten it back up and loosen it off again repeatedly but it still won't come out. I assumed there's a captive nut inside but if that's broken loose then I can't understand why I can always tighten the bolt back up - I'd expect it to just spin both ways. Any ideas what's happening here? I can't visualise what's inside there to cause this.
×
×
  • Create New...