Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering what are some fo the easiest ways people do this the way Im thinking of is undo that drain plug on the side of the block (rb25 so its not that hard to get to) then let all the coolant drain out of it then getting a hose and flush from the top radiator hose until all the water is clear coming out of the drain plug and this way all the water would come out and not be in the block. What do you guys think?

get yourself a flushing tool and an air compressor. Thats by far the best way. remove the radiator hoses from the radiator only, plug it into the bottom hose, attach the air line, hook up the garden hose and turn the garden hose on, it will back flush the water and every now and then you give it a hit with the air while its going to move any hard to get to stuff inside the block

Just wondering what are some fo the easiest ways people do this the way Im thinking of is undo that drain plug on the side of the block (rb25 so its not that hard to get to) then let all the coolant drain out of it then getting a hose and flush from the top radiator hose until all the water is clear coming out of the drain plug and this way all the water would come out and not be in the block. What do you guys think?

Just make sure you get all the tap water out of it. Also consider the heater core - they like to rust.

Im fitting a new radiator so might aswell do a full engine flush.

:thumbsup:

Yeah its called radiator flush and you buy it from a shop. :thumbsup:

:yucky: radiator flush normally sucks BUT if you use it while your old radiator is in the car (and don't mind throwing out your old radiator) then it's a great idea. The old radiator will act as a filter to catch all the gunk the radiator flush washes out of your motor.

Flushing tool works superbly, problem is if the car is cold/the thermostat closes while you're flushing causing pressure to build up and blow the tool/air-line/water-line out, so be sure to remove it before-hand.

I change mine by draining and re-filling it with water a few times, then adding pre-mix and dropping it again, then topping it up.

Use engine flush with the heater on full heat (this will flush out the heater core), drain radiator, refill radiator with water, let it idle awhile again with the heater on full, shut down and let cool, remove radiator, put in new radiator, fill with coolant, fill overflow with new coolant, let it idle up to temp with the radiator cap off and the heater on full heat (leaving the cap off will assist in removing air from the system), top up as required, after 5 minutes put the cap on and Bobs your uncle.<BR><BR>Check again when cold.<BR><BR>

wouldn't that restrict flow (especially once it has started to catch crap and get blocked up), thus putting more stress on your water pump as well as making the car more prone to overheating issues? or is it only used after flushing the system?

sounds like it was a good idea that was only half thought out. fuel filters and oil filters don't suffer from this problem because they are designed with a much greater surface area of filter membrane. having said that, a really dirty fuel filter can causing leaning issues.

filters are a very good idea after a cooling system flush, any sediment sitting in the blocks water jackets is now loosened up and is just waiting to block the tubes in the radiator,the filter i use is conical shaped and would take a lot of crud to cause any restriction

The easiest way i found is to not use tap water at all , as it will just keep rusting the block over and over as once you flush with it you cant get it out easily .

Best option is to use demineralised water to flush .eg drain radiator then fill with demin water , run car with heater on , repeat this method until you have clean clear demin water . i use 12 litres for this .

Then you can drain radiator once more and add concentrated unmixed NULON fluid to the radiator , which will mix with the clean demin water in the block .

Takes longer with a bit more effort , with near perfect results

The easiest way i found is to not use tap water at all , as it will just keep rusting the block over and over as once you flush with it you cant get it out easily .

Best option is to use demineralised water to flush .eg drain radiator then fill with demin water , run car with heater on , repeat this method until you have clean clear demin water . i use 12 litres for this .

Then you can drain radiator once more and add concentrated unmixed NULON fluid to the radiator , which will mix with the clean demin water in the block .

Takes longer with a bit more effort , with near perfect results

. . . and keep oxygen out of the system

Yeah usually I just use a normal garden hose and a flush kit that is sold on any auto parts store.

Require you to run your car with the heater on and do not use the t plastic hose connector that's included in the kit.

I advice buying a metal or copper one.

Should not be more then 20 bucks far every thing needed minus the fluid.

wouldn't that restrict flow (especially once it has started to catch crap and get blocked up), thus putting more stress on your water pump as well as making the car more prone to overheating issues? or is it only used after flushing the system?

sounds like it was a good idea that was only half thought out. fuel filters and oil filters don't suffer from this problem because they are designed with a much greater surface area of filter membrane. having said that, a really dirty fuel filter can causing leaning issues.

It takes 30 seconds to remove/clean/reinstall, small amout of preventitive maintanance, I usually do it when I check my fluid levels, come on guys, its simple maintanance, people spend more time wiping of spilled coolant from when they check fluid levels.

Or dont get one which will result all the crap that comes out, which is alot, getting stuck in the radiator and other areas of your cooling system.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...