Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So guys today my friend and I installed a D1 Spec oil catch can and a K&N cold air intake into my RB25DE. This took quite a little time as I was given some wrong piping and tried my best to fit everything together which I eventually did. So roughly 2-3 hours into the project we've installed everything and I'm hooking up the last pipe onto my catch can and to my dismay I find that the pipe that the hose is attaching to is too big! I tried to heat up the hose to stretch it and expand it but to no avail. So I ended up buying a hose to fit onto it which surprisingly fit as it was a Ford Falcon pipe of some sort. So with everything attached I go to start up my car and what do you know.. it chokes out. Amazing. I gave up and went inside and thinking about how I dismantled the OEM pipes I realized that /sigh... I put the air flow sensor on back to front =.="

So tomorrow I'm going to try and fix this problem and hopefully fix my car lol, I''ll share this picture of everything that I've done today. If anybody can find anything else that I may have done wrong please feel free to post, all the more help is welcome lol!

*Oh and the reason the black pipe coming out of the catch can is massive is because I just bought it and didn't know if it would fit properly or not so I was just trying it on.*

idiotqs.jpg

My mechanic told me that Iv'e got an oil leak problem with my engine and the cost effective preventative measure against any possible damage was to install the catch can. I'm not 100% on what the exact problem is aside from being told that I'll have to rebuild most of the engine /sigh.

  • Like 1

My mechanic told me that Iv'e got an oil leak problem with my engine and the cost effective preventative measure against any possible damage was to install the catch can. I'm not 100% on what the exact problem is aside from being told that I'll have to rebuild most of the engine /sigh.

Usually an oil leak problem is from a seal or gasket leaking, catch can wont do SFA to stop that...

Your intake pipe is too short, you need to lengthen it so it sits behind the headlight. Otherwise as stated you will just be sucking hot air where the pod is now.

I dont think that clear pipe will last too long either.

I've got a snorkel that I can attach to the filter, would that help at all or would i need to get a longer intake pipe? Also getting a new engine would be tough as I'm currently a full time student zzz

I would just get a longer pipe, one that comes down to behind the passenger headlight (where the airbox used to be) put the pod on the end of that, then gets some good cool air flowing to it, otherwise it is worse then stock.

student + skyline... been there done that.... it can be hard...

I've got a snorkel that I can attach to the filter, would that help at all or would i need to get a longer intake pipe? Also getting a new engine would be tough as I'm currently a full time student zzz

a new motor by itself with none of the loom, etc (which you wouldn't need as you can use your current stuff) wouldn't cost that much. a few hundred dollars. then get a few mates round and spend a few hours putting it in

I think I'm going to take up on what everyone is saying and save up to buy a new engine. Seems the logical thing to do as my engine has seen its best part of 18 years lol. 4 months till I'm off my P's so time to save for an RB25DET! Btw thanks to everyone who gave me some pointers with this, really appreciate it ^.^

Oh and to post the proper problem why it wasn't working.. I accidentally hooked the catch can hose up to the idle control valve (not sure if that's the correct name). Hopefully that may help people in the future haha! Time to find a nipple and weld it onto the pipe I'm running off the throttle body. Btw as per suggested I've extended the intake pipe so that the filter sits behind the headlights.

well i guess you could say why bother with a skyline of any type whilst a full time student etc, but yeah i'd be leaning towards the new motor option, the n/a rb25 is worth about as much as an rb30 lol

Me and my mate attend Uni full-time for the last 2 years both with R34 25GT's, both cars have been solid its when you start mucking around with them stuff goes wrong.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
×
×
  • Create New...