Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

he is such a good guy... didnt think he would still remember me

told him the issue and he did say the problem I have is one that could occur due to valves.. although he did say that valve problems are pretty rare

he also said he had a method of determining whether it is actually the valves without opening the head!

so will def be getting the car looked over by him (not sure if i should tell PT though)

was going to call him tomorrow but he called me lol... was very impressed! should have just gone to him again lol

Edited by usmair

I might have misinterpreted him

i think he meant due to the cost involved in changing springs... it might be financially better to 'do' the head (if i wanted to) seeing as we're spending $ on labour regardless

I can understand this, a full reco'd head might be better value than doing just the springs on your head. Though you'd want to make sure it was a reputable company that supplied it.

Usually valve float occurs at a resonant point in the rev range meaning that the power falls away momentarily. You usually see the mixtures do weird things at that point as the exhaust valve stays open longer.

If your exhaust back pressure is high you will usually float the exhaust valve on a turbocharged car given the profiling of the inlet is similar to the exh.

Does the power stay on higher at lower boost levels?

Usually valve float occurs at a resonant point in the rev range meaning that the power falls away momentarily. You usually see the mixtures do weird things at that point as the exhaust valve stays open longer.

If your exhaust back pressure is high you will usually float the exhaust valve on a turbocharged car given the profiling of the inlet is similar to the exh.

Does the power stay on higher at lower boost levels?

Tuner said power isnt falling momentarily... it just starts to lose power consistently after 6300RPM... its not like it temporarily loses power then jumps back up :S

the back pressue shouldnt be an issue... its got big front pipes and a 3.5" exhaust

the power is staying similar thought! it made 317kw on 22 psi with a boost leak under the plenum from a gasket

what does that suggest?? (sorry complete noob here)

he didnt mention anything about knocking... just seems to be stuck at 320kw

Which makes it sound more like a flow issue, and not exhaust side as that tends to send temps up and hence detonate.

Which leaves valves, intake, leaks??, turbo, cam timing etc.

"peak power right now is at 6300... car just starts struggling to breath and loses power"

Sounds like an exact thing i had.. Drop a set of Tomei TypeB 9.15mm in. Ignore what everyone says about running standard cams and try again and you won't live to regret.

Everyone is always talking highly of Unigroup but i find the car's he tunes runs quite low power and they are only in RWD/2WD? Too safe of a tune perhaps? Who knows...

"peak power right now is at 6300... car just starts struggling to breath and loses power"

Sounds like an exact thing i had.. Drop a set of Tomei TypeB 9.15mm in. Ignore what everyone says about running standard cams and try again and you won't live to regret.

Everyone is always talking highly of Unigroup but i find the car's he tunes runs quite low power and they are only in RWD/2WD? Too safe of a tune perhaps? Who knows...

can you please provide further details of your situation?? even the tuner said standard cams are perfect for -9s

yeh Yavuz only has a 2 wheel dyno so readings are in RWD... he does tune them to last so they might be slightly lower in power perhaps...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • Mine is all -12, I’m running a dry sump in a billet block though 
×
×
  • Create New...