Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As long as it's 3" and opens to 4", you'll be fine.

The main thing you want to ensure is the AFM is far away as possible. Plus a Z32 AFM isn't 4" and that's what everyone makes 300+ on (3" going to 4") - so it's not an issue of importance.

As long as it's 3" and opens to 4", you'll be fine.

The main thing you want to ensure is the AFM is far away as possible. Plus a Z32 AFM isn't 4" and that's what everyone makes 300+ on (3" going to 4") - so it's not an issue of importance.

so are you saying 4inch until just before the filter? or 4inch pipe for say half a foot then taper down to 3inch? if the compressor housing is 4inch maybe garrett thinks a 4inch pipe is needed, im not sure.

Edited by SliverS2

You can just use a 4" to 3" silicon adapter, some of the HKS kits come with this

The GTX3071 is only a 4" inlet because of the port shrouding, if you look at the compressor wheel, its only about 3" when you dont include the port shrouding. I dont think a 3" intake would ever be much of a restriction with this turbo

The z32 is going ash got a link g4 and 7bar map sensor if the 3 inch line is fine i wont change it thanks for the input mate

As long as it's 3" and opens to 4", you'll be fine.

The main thing you want to ensure is the AFM is far away as possible. Plus a Z32 AFM isn't 4" and that's what everyone makes 300+ on (3" going to 4") - so it's not an issue of importance.

Less work for me sounds good appreciate your responses guys just wanna get my setup right for E85 for the best possible results can anybody tell me if the big can actuator can help bring boost on better?

The z32 is going ash got a link g4 and 7bar map sensor if the 3 inch line is fine i wont change it thanks for the input mate

Didn't even read that part lol. More-so just meant that if everyone else does it with AFM size leading pipe then it shouldn't be a problemo :D

Ive got a hks evc6 controlling boost at the moment mate but thinking bout swapping it for a profec b because yavus knows how to set them up the hks is bit of a head f**k to setup whats the link boost control like?

Are you using the Link plus a solenoid for boost control?

Guess i will wait and see wat yavus and his dyno tell me but sounds like it will be fine if its too small ill weld up a new line in nice shiny 316 staino

if it starts becoming a serious restriction boost would taper off pretty badly because of it. i've run 24psi with a 3" intake with a 3-4" reducer on the turbo end with no problems at all

Was hard enough making the suction line fit in 3" with the z32 let alone 4" plus z32 lol just thought if it would aid my setup id swap it over

Didn't even read that part lol. More-so just meant that if everyone else does it with AFM size leading pipe then it shouldn't be a problemo :D

Good move bro, I hate AFM's.

Try to retro an airbox back in then put a 4" adapter to the box and run a 4" pipe from the turbo fo the box.

FYI you can use an EVO pod filter adaptor for an easy 4" mounting flange. I do something similar with the airbox in my 200, I use an SR20 3" pod adaptor bolted to my airbox where the AFM normally goes and have a 3" pipe from there to the front of my 3" turbo.

:thumbsup:

Cheers for the tip Jase might try getting my hands on a stock airbox and see what i can come up with to make it look legit :thumbsup: [ quote name=GTScotT' timestamp='1326340234' post='6185211]

Good move bro, I hate AFM's.

Try to retro an airbox back in then put a 4" adapter to the box and run a 4" pipe from the turbo fo the box.

FYI you can use an EVO pod filter adaptor for an easy 4" mounting flange. I do something similar with the airbox in my 200, I use an SR20 3" pod adaptor bolted to my airbox where the AFM normally goes and have a 3" pipe from there to the front of my 3" turbo.

:thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...