Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've had my car for a few months now and there are some things which i can easily see were modified. However, I'm still not sure whether my turbo is stock or not.

It already had a manual boost controller installed and it was turned up to max boost, which boosts beyond the reaches of the stock boost gauge. I'm worried that if it's a stock turbo, the turbo can't handle the boost and will blow soon. I don't want to turn down the boost (for obvious power reasons). Are there any tell-tale signs of a stock turbo? I can't see any signs or writing on the turbo without taking it out. It seems to be a bit rusted compared to the rest of the components next to it so I'm wondering if that's normal, or some second hand or aftermarket turbo in there.

I'll put some pics up when i get a chance.

Thanks guys,

Jay-C

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388400-is-my-turbo-stock/
Share on other sites

Put it on a dyno and find out just how much power its making and how much boost its running.

Dyno opperator will be able to tell you if its safe or not.

If its got well over 200kw and tuner says its safe you can assume that its tuned and has an upgraded turbo, if its making around the 200 mark or less then its a stock turbo and you should turn the boost back to 12 at most.

This is if you fail at identifying what it is for yourself. You really should have asked about the cars full history when you handed over your hard earned coin....

Not sure if this helps you at all, but these are pics from the original owner of my car when the old turbo was done -

BEFORE -

post-47580-0-63749600-1326688023_thumb.jpgpost-47580-0-50440600-1326688064_thumb.jpg

AFTER -

post-47580-0-61520800-1326688119_thumb.jpgpost-47580-0-61402000-1326688154_thumb.jpg

Errrr it would appear the first AFTER image is EPIC FAIL..... Sorry >_<

Just going on the pictures, you can quite clearly see that the turbine side (exhaust wheel) is much larger and looks to be steel in the after shot. Very confident that if those pictures are of the same turbo and it is on your car, you have high flow job.

Just going on the pictures, you can quite clearly see that the turbine side (exhaust wheel) is much larger and looks to be steel in the after shot. Very confident that if those pictures are of the same turbo and it is on your car, you have high flow job.

Dude, i only posted them for an example for the guy that started the topic :cool: That turbo was off my R34......... Was trying to help!

Thanks for the responses. Yes, 34GTT i realise that post was for me to get a better idea of what it could look like. I'm not going to be taking the turbo out though so i'm hoping that i can tell just from the housing.

i guess if it says "nissan" on it, it's stock.

Thanks for the responses. Yes, 34GTT i realise that post was for me to get a better idea of what it could look like. I'm not going to be taking the turbo out though so i'm hoping that i can tell just from the housing.

i guess if it says "nissan" on it, it's stock.

No, that isnt totally correct.

You can have the stock turbo high flowed to make more power. So your turbo may LOOK stock, but the internals are far from it.

AS mentioned the easiest way is to see if the compressor inlet has been bored out. :)

Edited by gotRICE?

Another way to tell is by the cartridge. Often hi flow jobs consist of putting a different cartridge such as a 2860 or 2871. The casting of the cartridge looks different to that of stock, If its a relatively new hi flow, the cartridge will look newer and with less rust.

I sent a stock RB20 turbo off to hypergear to get high flowed, and when I got it back the centre housing of the turbo looked quite different to before, obviously very clean, but also different, so posting a pic of that as well might help?

I sent a stock RB20 turbo off to hypergear to get high flowed, and when I got it back the centre housing of the turbo looked quite different to before, obviously very clean, but also different, so posting a pic of that as well might help?

What sort of power did the RB20 make after you got it back from Hypergear? and was there much difference in the low to mid range response? am considering doing the same.

Mike.

coz he originally bought it already moded and has NFI?

a couple of the cars i sold were sold on rep, the new owners have NFI whats in them and if they arent in contact with me when they sell then they never will

equally so many people get their cars done at shops and dont ask questions

What sort of power did the RB20 make after you got it back from Hypergear? and was there much difference in the low to mid range response? am considering doing the same.

Mike.

Am getting it tuned very shortly, hopefully next week, but on whatever tune is running it spools up well, no power after 5000 rpm, but it's got some weird chip in the ECU that will be gone for a Nistune and should make some good power, looking like it will be great value for money, watch the RB20 upgrade thread, will be posting there after the tune, but for the money, so far recommended.

Didn't mean to hijack, carry on.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. Was just wondering if you were having a small stroke or if there was some slur/gaf/inside joke that I wasn't aware of.
    • That was a fark up, it's Salamanca Place I was thinking of. And now I'm curious as to what potential slur/gaf I have caused with Salamander Road, ha ha!
    • Actually everyone on the roads was really well behaved. The only person that did any minor tailgating was a local hoon in a Turbo Focus. Unfortunately we weren't going the same way so there was no grand initial D touge battle. Lots of people pulled over and let me through. The amount of "Hey man nice car, omg skyline, nice 34 man woo" was suprising. Like really suprising. Like almost annoying. My partner was obviously surprised, she'd never seen anyone in the real world point out the car/like the car/want to chat about the car before, so to have like 3 people per day mention it was notable, I could finally say SEE? SOMEONE THINKS THEY'RE COOL. Everyone was also pretty suprised about the weather. Every day was dry and about ~13-14C. Mount Wellington had a sign that said they close the gates at 9pm and I was heading up there at about ~7:30. It was VERY apparent that conditions were getting significantly worse by the minute on the way up and down. The road on the mountain was terrible though, it's no driving road. I have various suspension related questions now. Luckily it was only about 20 minutes from where we were staying to the top of the mountain as said Google maps. We only had the 2 nights in Hobart. We went to the Farm Gate Market though which was really good - And went down to the Hastings Thermal springs/caves down there during the day. I'd definitely be up for going back again, so luckily there's a few more sights yet to see. Didn't get to do the west coast/queenstown/cradle mountain so this was supposed to be a 'scouting' trip anyway of sorts if I were to one day do/take part in/organize a more car-focused trip. As for the boat, it wasn't bad. Well it was bad, but not in the way you're thinking. We did the night trip which leaves at 6:45 (though you have to be there ~2 hours earlier) and arrives the next morning at about 6am. There is nothing to do on the ship. If you plan accordingly and bring a book/tablet/show to watch/charger you can just chill out, take some Travacalm and just sleep through it. The food there is an extremely basic buffet that costs $32 a plate, or $14 for a $3 pizza. The way back we had a travel kettle and a few different types of cup noodles and made our own tea/coffee in the room. This was a far superior way to do it. At the very least book one of the rooms with beds. I guess as we were in the off season we didn't have room mates. You get an option for rooms with 4 beds (2x bunks) or a room with just the two bottom beds. There's also some option for a deluxe queen bed but it's much pricer. We've been on sleeper trains in Asia before so we figured this is similar (and it was)
    • You just gotta be really, really, really clear and decisive with what you want your end product to be. 99% of people who want this conversion aren't "I want to run a 295 front tyre!" so they don't really need the widebody. They just want the OEM body to look a little less dumpy, so bonnet, bar, skirts job done with some camber, stretch, slam. It's when you want that, but then decide to pivot later you get big problems. See also if you're willing to get an all in one fibreglass bar, and you're willing to accept fibreglass problems like cracking the entire item on a driveway, instead of just a piece attached to the bottom, etc etc etc. Decide this all before buyin'.
×
×
  • Create New...