Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 131
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Quick update...

Called the panel shop doing the repairs underneath the car today, he said the parts from Japan won't be here for at least three weeks!!! :domokun:

At least the car and the engine will be finished both at once so I can start dropout the engine back in in a few weeks...

Thinking of respraying the engine bay blue also while the engine is out.. Just to clean up the look a little. :thumbsup:

how is the cost saving of a brand new 2.6 crank going to make it more bullet proof than the 2.8 kit? either way you are getting forged guts (rods and pistons + brand new crank)

It's a total saving of just over $3000 including the full treatment on the new crank and all pistons and rods...

Tony can get me great prices on everything except stroker kits hahaha :cheers:

yeah lol, i missed the Toll Priority delivery at home by 10 minutes, and they say i have to wait till monday to get it now lol. Went from an expensive 3 day delivery to an expensive and frustrating 8 day delivery. Gotta love Toll. kunce

I hope everyone had a good Australia Day :thumbsup:

Update!!!

Got some parts today, pumped!!

post-47369-0-69566000-1327646884_thumb.jpg

ID1000cc Injectors and fuel system..

post-47369-0-65401300-1327647079_thumb.jpg

Also got a Trust Oil Cooler/Relocator Kit...

Now all I need is the panel shop to hurry up with the car so I can put it all back together.. :glare:

Edited by SHOWOFFR32

without the stroker kit it realy isnt going to be that different from any other rb26 build.

more info on how u are going to get it responsive would be good, but seeing as your budget is limited to not even a stroker kit i cant see much happening

Haha yeah Reece and his R34 are going to be my pit crew but only if he's lucky cos this things going to be in another class haha :thumbsup:

How do you know reece??

Haha my old 34R is now his :)

I'm looking forward to seeing how far he takes it.

Good for you blokes to have some healthy competition going!

cant beat a stroker for response

i think the ID1000 with e85 fuel wont make your 500kw goal my 2c. but prove me wrong

The turbo I'm using is rated at just over 520kw so we'll see...

Anyway, as the topic is titled, 400-500rwkw I'll be hugely happy with 450rwkw...

without the stroker kit it realy isnt going to be that different from any other rb26 build.

more info on how u are going to get it responsive would be good, but seeing as your budget is limited to not even a stroker kit i cant see much happening

Righto mate, like a RB28 is super different anyway, it's done all the time so they are deffinatly nothing special... Just buy a kit, slap it in and reap the displacement benefits..

I'd rather save the $3000 for another part of the car and stay true to the GTRs 2.6L displacement and see just how responsive I can make it while making some good power...

I could have bought a R32 or R33 and thrown the extra $30,000 I would save on the purchase price into the engine and stroked it and gone all out but I prefer the R34s alot more hence the reason there is a budget to this build... I own this car outright and I am using savings to modify it,not a loan or daddys money and I am not going to dip into my house deposit money for a few extra KWs, 450rwkw is plenty for the street in anyone's book so I am staying the 2.6 because I can pick up a crank for $600, pistons for $600 and rods for $800... Not the $5000 it would cost for a stroker kit...

There is alot of work going into the head porting, valve sizes, plenum design, manifold design and turbo selection to make this thing as responsive as a set of -5s with more power and a neater engine bay...

I think its fairly safe to say that if you don't spend the money in the bottom end to achieve your power goal, you will instead have to spend it in the top end. I don't believe there is any money to be saved with creation of big power. You end up spending it somewhere in the end.

By that I mean either ....

RB28 + mild head work/cams, 8000 RPM and 25lb boost with your T51 class turbo. or

RB26 + heavily worked over head with 272/step 2 valve train components. 9000 RPM and 25lb boost with your T51 class turbo.

If it takes 2 months longer to afford the stroker, then wait for it. It really is worth it. I know which of the two above options i'd prefer.

ID1000's would achieve the 500kw goal easily with a water/meth system... (still my new favourite modification).

Mmm, well the head is already been started and all the parts have already been purchased...

The head is getting 272 cams, full step 3 valve train and oversized valves :thumbsup:

Tony seems to think we'll see 480rwkw with e85 and he's been doing this along time... So we'll see...

Only time will tell...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...