Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 177
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Tie rod ends are the same as ball joints, right?

If so, ring Nissan, they can organise those for you.

Otherwise do what I suggested before when you PM'd me, and search.

People here are happy to help, but you have to try and do some research.

Searching for ball joints found my thread from two months ago, and also enlightened me on my irritating wiper problem. Awesome!

And not sure where that relay was, but looks like the 4WD relay to me.

Tie rod end is on the end of the steering rack, the ball joint is on the ends of both the upper and lower control arms linking the hub upright together.

Ball joint go with what Ryan found in his topic, as for the tie rod end go to Nissan.

have had a search on the relay, cant find what it is only that its a bracket relay. will ring nissan tomorrow and see if they can find it out

(25233M)

http://nissan.epcdat...ric/252/25233M/

found this too where i can order it,

http://www.amayama.c...37AL800&cur=AUD

Edited by adambruv

ill buy the 2 lights, just in case one side is better quality, if so i can put both in and both sides will look the same :)

thanks for your help mate!

for postage ill go EMS/AIR

what postage would i pick ? b or c ?

thanks

Two headlights via EMS will be around $200... from experience :(

gave main north nissan a call about the relay, they couldn't even tell me what it done, only that they could get 1 for $150 in japan, 2-3 weeks wait, going to a couple of wreckers on friday, see if i can get me one :)

Is this a build thread or a repair thread? Are you just fixing this up to be a nice daily or do you want it to be unique?

If it's the latter, rip off the flares, find an aero bar and fit some aftermarket overfenders. :banana:

Granted these examples are not a M35, but you may get the idea...

datsun_510.jpg

0298fenderflaresebbsrc.jpg

5588093624_8d4d4b2468_o.jpg

DSC_0448.JPG

330_ToyotaScionXB.jpg

What I'm getting at though, is that if you're planning on modifying it you may be able to save some decent coin in the long run by just getting it on the road, looking however it does, and then using overfenders instead of the standard stuff..?

What I'm getting at though, is that if you're planning on modifying it you may be able to save some decent coin in the long run by just getting it on the road, looking however it does, and then using overfenders instead of the standard stuff..?

but wont buying 4 overfenders cost more than buying one standard flare?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...