Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 177
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  On 03/08/2012 at 12:58 AM, iamhe77 said:

Were you familiar with the grill that was on Iain's car?

That is a damn good looking grill IMO and can be found on Yahoo.

IainsM35aero.jpg

yeh forgot about that, but I was always a fan of open grills, and the nismo option was ironically the more expensive option

  On 03/08/2012 at 4:25 AM, Sunkist said:

yeh forgot about that, but I was always a fan of open grills, and the nismo option was ironically the more expensive option

Not a Nismo option, just a custom grill with a Nismo emblem put on it ;)

i have a quick question.

the engine light is on the dash and i have no idea why, who would be the best person tos peak to ? the local auto electricion ? or is there something i can do to find out why its there by myself ?

cheers

1. Ignition to "ON", wait 3 secs

2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times within 5 secs

3. Wait 7 secs and press accelerator pedal to the floor

4. Wait until CEL flashes then release pedal.

5. Count flashes to retrieve the CEL codes (10 flashes is a zero value and codes are in groups of 4 values)

Sounds like a sensor has gone over 5 volts at some stage- just reset and see if it comes back before trying to find out what sensor

google copy paste

OBD Code P0651refers to

These 5-volt reference circuits are independent of each other outside the PCM, but are bussed together inside the Engine Control Module (ECM). Therefore a circuit condition on one sensor 5-volt reference circuit may affect the other sensor 5-volt reference circuits. The ECM monitors the voltage on the 5-volt reference circuit.

Causes

Possible causes of OBD code P0651

- Shorted sensor - Shorted sensor circuit - Failed ECM The Error code is generally activated on detection of the following conditions: The ECM has detected an out of voltage range on the 5 volt reference circuit 2

  • 1 year later...
  On 13/07/2014 at 11:47 PM, Dunc said:

Threads shouldn't be deleted just because you're trying to sell the car without mentioning its a RWO in the sale description.

Lol, nicely played Dunc.

Honesty is the best policy.

Ask Edward Lee. :whistling:

Perhaps sale thread should be linked to this thread to demonstrate the hard work required to achieve a successful repair?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...