Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I asked a simular question when i 1st came on this site about the cheaper turbos and soon got drilled about it. Obviously by putting one of these turbos on he would be running his engine at risk. However ive also watched a lot of vids of youtube with the yanks and there ebay turbo engine builds (mainly on honda civics). some last a year or so and some dont. Mafia also said to me that most of these turbo only last one or to runs on the dyno then they blow oil seals.

If ur mate does decide to go ahead with this turbo then atleast msg other ebay users who have bought it and ask them what its like, preferably the buyers who bought it a while ago so they can tell u if the turbo is still running ok or shat itself

There's nothing wrong with trying a cheap turbo, but putting one on while you wait a week or two for your genuine Garrett to arrive is simply retarded.

It's one of the silliest things I've read on here thus far. And I read most of NewB's inane bullshit!

how is it $700 on a temp turbo ive told him not to do it but he is and will be putting it on the dyno

It's going to cost a solid $50 to post, he'll likely need different oil/water lines and a dump pipe. Then there's fitting and/or tuning.

$700 is likely a conservative estimate.

OMG im not a newb and its a direct bolt on for all the lines and dump pipe even the factory cooler piping fits and its $426 delivered

his turbo is 2 weeks away then a further 2 weeks for the exgate and to modify the stock manifold then a week for the dump pipe so after he sells the stock turbo for 250 or so its only 150 more to try a turbo for a few weeks

yeah ill tell him pretty sure his gonna do it

at the end of the day theres plenty of people using ebay turbos

ie kando and i remember when taos turbos first came out they were only sold on ebay and i remember 5-6 years ago people were worried about them and saying the same stuff but now look most people swear by them

Kando, made in Japan using Mitsubishi components. Hyper gear, made in Australia alot of testing. China turbos, made from cheap, inferior components, not tried, hardly tested and not proven. People aren't giving you or your mate shit about turbo choice, no, it's the whole idea which is horrible and an utter waste. a proper turbos compressor wheel cost as much as that Chinese turbo cost to cut out of raw material. You want to tell me they are reliable? Imagine what the core looks like.

I recon if your mate did do this, he will have the Garrett in his hands before this China turbo is running and tuned on his car.

And it's not a direct bolt on, you are going to need a new hot pipe or silicone bend.

Edited by SargeRX8

My opinion in 3 points:

- I would probably try that turbo for the lulz factor of it possibly being very good (it seems to be a completely custom turbo).

- I would NOT buy another turbo for ANY reason if I already had one on order.

- YOU MUST GET IT TUNED.

K I'm done.

lol ill ban them all :P nah its just a forum joke, some forums even have a smiley that holds a sign saying 'pics or ban'

like when someone says 'just fitted my te37s' you say 'pics or ban'

you said '280kw $400 turbo just got off the dyno' i said 'pics or ban'

yeah all good hahaha but yeah i went in his car and omg it was impressive for a $400 turbo he has been giving it a really hard time and no signs of wear of shaft play YET but we will wait and see

come on guys lets see some more people try this if i was goin to get a gt3071 again or a highflow i would snap this up

EVERYTHING bolted up once he removed his stock turbo 100% no problem at all just needed a new silicone bend but thats it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...