Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 For A Teenager

The One Know as Blake
 Share

Recommended Posts

The One Know as Blake Newbie

The One Know as Blake

Posted
Posted

G'day everyone i'm turning 16 in a month and i've been looking for a first car with my parents and i have finally got them to allow me to by a r 34 :D

i've been researching this for a couple months now and wanted to get some experts (you guys) advice. i want to get a r 34 4 door sedan non-turbo manual.

what is the better type to get for a first car, a GT-T, GT-V or a straight up GT. what is perfered the 2L or 2.5L? what are the types of mileage on these cars?

Also, does anyone know an estimate on insurance (drives everyday), i'm guessing around 3-4 all up. any estimate would be great.

And any advice of anykind thanks.

Blake

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389288-r34-for-a-teenager/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Mick_o Grand Master

Mick_o

Posted
Posted

Im unbolting my turbo for sure! Lol

My advice dude, just get a corolla or a falcondore until you're able to afford a turbo model (GT-T, GTR).

If you really want a non turbo skyline, then be prepared for the never-ending crowds of hot semi-naked oiled up women after you!

The One Know as Blake Newbie

The One Know as Blake

Posted
  • Author
Posted

landscribble i have enough $ for a turbo except on P's (green and red) you are not allowed to drive turbo (unless it's diesel) that why i wanted a non-turbo.

so there is no real point of getting a non turbo, i should just wait till i'm 20 for the turbo?

Savtraxx Proficient

Savtraxx

Posted
Posted

I'm 17 and just bought a r33 gts NA and am on my L platesBuy a NA r34 that you like. It's easy as , what you like meaning low km , clean inside and out , no mechanical faults , get someone that has skyline or good car knowledge to check it out for you , don't drive a long way with intention to buy a car you haven't looked at in the fleshGet someone to take it for a drive , listen for anything abnormal like rattles or any blue smoke coming from the exhaust , give it a bootful and see if it misses or hesitates , 16 yr old with an r34...Jesus , I'll inbox you my number and I can help you more

Mick_o Grand Master

Mick_o

Posted
Posted

Most non turbos are worth more than turbos mate so we know you have the $$$ to buy 1 What me ol mate is getting at is that you will pay top whack for a performance car that doesnt perform like 1! since you are a young bloke still learning how to drive buy yourself something that you arent gunna care too much bout "effin" up cos when ya learning ya gunna faark up eventially as thats what happens when ya learning (no offence) and destroying ya pride and joy sux balls dude! so get a falcodore or a lil rolla thats cheap as chips will go just as good as a skyline be cheaper to run and enjoy ya new found freedom cruising with ya mates and soon as ya hit 20 ya gunna have heaps of cash to buy a sweet ride that looks good and goes hard and will make ya lil lady friends moist in the pants :thumbsup:

P.S TRUST ME :yes:

landscribble i have enough $ for a turbo except on P's (green and red) you are not allowed to drive turbo (unless it's diesel) that why i wanted a non-turbo.

so there is no real point of getting a non turbo, i should just wait till i'm 20 for the turbo?

jimmyr31 Contributor

jimmyr31

Posted
Posted (edited)

theres no point, insurance will kill you it will be around 2500-3k p/year for full comp through just car (the only insurance company that will touch you)

I bought an na r34 at age 19 and I regret it 2 years later for a variety of reasons but I can stress listen to the knowledgable people here and wait. Buy something else first. My first car was an r31 and I can't recommend them enough. Cheap to buy, cheap to insure, cheap to work on, easy to learn on and drive rather well.

If your hell bent on making a decision you'll financially regret I recommend buying mine off me.

In all seriousness what you want is either a gt-v or a gt-x (sedan). I've only seen rb25de versions in australia the rb25de is fairly sluggish commos are faster in a straight line...corners are a different story. Try to get a gt-v the lack of lsd and trouble with parts will shit you after awhile with a normal gt. gt-v's are the exact same as a gt-t just minus the turbo.

Edited by jimmyr31
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

landscribble i have enough $ for a turbo except on P's (green and red) you are not allowed to drive turbo (unless it's diesel) that why i wanted a non-turbo.

so there is no real point of getting a non turbo, i should just wait till i'm 20 for the turbo?

That's his point - You pay too much for them really when you look @ what they are.

Better off as said, buying a little run-about for a few years and then step into a GTR or something once you have even more cash behind you. It'll also help you as insurance for 2-4 years will improve your rating etc as insurance will be a huge expense.

Basically cool N/A now, paying huge insurance costs, stuck with it for a while.

or

Sh*tbox now, cheap insurance, more cash spare for awesome GTR later.

:)

D-limo Veteran

D-limo

Posted
Posted

I say go for it dude. Maybe these guys are just a bit jealous? Don't take mileage as gospel as alot of odo readings are wound back ex Japan. Look after it and it should hold it's value fairly well.

Most importantly get a professional 3rd party check (racq etc)

Mick_o Grand Master

Mick_o

Posted
Posted

Lol jealous of what exactly mate?

I say go for it dude. Maybe these guys are just a bit jealous? Don't take mileage as gospel as alot of odo readings are wound back ex Japan. Look after it and it should hold it's value fairly well.

Most importantly get a professional 3rd party check (racq etc)

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

That's his point - You pay too much for them really when you look @ what they are.

Better off as said, buying a little run-about for a few years and then step into a GTR or something once you have even more cash behind you. It'll also help you as insurance for 2-4 years will improve your rating etc as insurance will be a huge expense.

Basically cool N/A now, paying huge insurance costs, stuck with it for a while.

or

Sh*tbox now, cheap insurance, more cash spare for awesome GTR later.

:)

Exactly.....

And to prepare yourself for your first turbo car...

a) try and get a RWD

b) buy something you can/would like to work on

c) do advanced driving courses 1-2-3

d) use your savings to get some decent tools (that don't break)

Mick_o Grand Master

Mick_o

Posted
Posted

Great advice terry learning to drive properly is the best thing u can do before u purchase a high performance car and become another road statistic but what would us older blokes know? We have only been there and done that! An R34 is a nice car to cruise around in but in n/a form they are gutless, fuel economy isnt good plus it will have to run on premium fuel = more $$$ to fuel up, service intervals are shorter which is more $$$ again if u clock up k's, insurance for an import coupe is gunna be ridiculously priced for a young bloke too. Weigh up these scenarios mate. Why buy a car that costs a shitload more to purchase,is more expensive to run has less power than a falcodore is less practical than 1 and is gunna get all the wrong attention from the cops cos u r a young bloke behind the wheel of an imported car then if they defect ya = more $$$ again! Like terry said find something nice still, that u r happy to work on and learn on and learm how to handle a car in all scenarios in a controlled environment which will be a blast too! Obviously u r good with ya cash so when ya hit 20 u will have the money for a beast that will go good and look good and u will have the knowledge how to drive and maintain it = win! Look not so cool now for couple of years mate but be the man in a couple of years when ya got the horniest fastest ride amongst ya boys!

Mick_o Grand Master

Mick_o

Posted
Posted

Lol well i had a 1200 datto young player was a bag of poo but had an A15 motor with webbers and oval port heads had 110 hp atw went like the clappers cost jack shit to run didnt care if i hurt it and cost me $1800

lololol

trolled.

I unno codger. What was your first car?

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

lololol

trolled.

I unno codger. What was your first car?

And if you were referring to me instead of Mick, here's mine...

1600-6.jpg

A bit of cosmetic upgrade...

1600-3.jpg

Learned how to make it potent like Mick with a 45DCOE Webber on Lynx manifold...

1600-5.jpg

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

Haha very true tezza wish i had the interwebs for info like this when i was a pup cos we all know our dads didnt know what they were talking about when we were that age lol

Haha...

Dads?....

I wanted an MGB to pull the chicks > Dad said "No, you'll kill yourself" LOL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By Duncan · Posted

      The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • MBS206
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...