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Thermostat For Grex Oil Filter W/relocation Kit


JD32R
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Hey guys,

Just after some assistance..

Bought a Oil filter relocation kit with an oil cooler, it doesnt come with a thermostat, just a junction piece.

How hard is it going to be to firstly buy a thermostat? will a universal one fit with some modification at the workshop?

This is for a R32 Gtr, got this basically for a steal for the relocator kit and going to run the oil cooler for RB26 piece of mind.

Is it 100% bad to not have the thermostat?? it will rarely in the next year see a track day its mostly my street driven car.

Cheers.

ANY help would be most appreciated!!

J

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There us a thread here somewhere of people talking oil thermostats. Mocal and earls do in line thermostats that you could incorporate. Can mount then anywhere you want.

Or wherever your current lines allow. You will need extra fittings if course.

Oh, and I don't run a thermostat in mine. Havnt for years. So its up to you. Do rb26 have the water oil coolers?

Edited by gotRICE?
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I have that exact setup on my car and bought this thermostat as it was on sale at the time so pretty cheap.

http://www.revolutionracegear.com.au/index.php?PCID=10560&PSO=245&PSID=3105331758&PSV=Primary&CDO=

That was when I was still driving the car on the street, without it, oil temps would take far too long to come up which is not something you want.

I believe those thermostats open around 77 degrees or so, though there is always around 10% flow going to the core to keep pressures even and to avoid having big temp differences when flow directions change.

You can get away without one on a dedicated track car but I'd say it's a must for a street car, especially if you live anywhere in Aus that encoutners some of the colder climates like I do (Vic)

Very easy to plumb in, make sure you pay attention to the in/out ports.

Edited by ActionDan
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If its a street only car i dont see a point really of fitting a oil cooler but yeah if you must def need thermostat or else it never warms up. I cant even get my track car past 70 on 35 degree day when driving normal.

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It's not a bad idea for a street car making decent power, but more so if you enjoy the occasional spirited drive. Cheap insurance really and the relocator is the best service device invented :D

Same here for oil temp, can go for a good flog and do some tuning/testing and not see oil go above 70-75 degrees, need sustained hot laps for it climb beyond that. That comes down to other things though too, how much power, how efficient the rest of the cooling system is, ambient temps etc.

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Yeah,

Im a big believer in the added insurance.

Basically the car hasnt seen any track days, this may change coming up as the engine is geetting a tune and a few other things being added to get the power up.

it runs about 290kwaw and im aiming to get it up to around 350ish eventually to see the car come alive a bit more.

It will be having a oil catch can setup put on, and i was basically looking for a relocation kit, this one came up cheaper than a greddy kit with the cooler so i jumped on it.

Id rather have extra thatn not enough on oil side of things.

have priced up two remote oil thermostats

-Earls: $100 odd also has an option for a sensor for gauges etc.

-Mocal remote setup about $160 landed

Both seem pretty good. thinking more so the earls one however.

Any feedback/things i should look out for??

J

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I've not used either so can't comment on those units specifically. All I could say is perhaps check how easy it will be to plumb it into your existing system in terms of fitting style/size. Best to try and avoid needing Enzed to give you -AN conversion fittings or the like if possible.

As for the senders, My GREX plate had plenty of ports for those, I've got an oil temp and pressure sender on it and have not had any issues, nice to know you're picking up the oil temp the instant it leaves the engine too, at it's hottest (peak), rather than from the sump where it's more like an average temp like many others seem to do.

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That's fine with me, I'd rather the peak temp reading be higher than lower, no harm in backing off sooner. That said, if you've seen the GREX kit, it's a pretty slick bit of gear, I'd be very surprised if there's so much as 5deg variance from the "real" temp taking heat soak into account.

Bottom line for me, makes much more sense to get my reading there than the sump.

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Have to agree with Dan,

I would rather have a slightly over reading as more of a warning system than something which is more variant and less of a true reading.

Mocal looking like the way to go, have checked and the 10 -AN setup will basically go straight in where i have a joiner on the system (told my mechanic/mate) so fingers crossed a very easy addition.

price is so so, if i add everything up im getting a full relocation kit with the thermostat and oil cooler for dirt cheap really so couldnt be happier, just need to get it fitted.

Dan-

Did you fit your kit yourself?? how easy was it all to fit and where do you have the oil cooler mounted??

Any ideas about what filter is needed for the kit? standard RB26 R32 Gtr filter?

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Eeek I can't remember what my GT-R ran filter numbers wise, I've got my kit on a CA S13 at present so it's just using the generic Z145A Filter, only does 3-500k's before being replaced and it's a 145k kilometer engine anyway so no need for super duper brand name filter for me.

Here's a pic of the kit before the cooler went in, and before the battery got relocated, washer bottle removed, cooler piping painted etc. Let me know if you can't see it as I'm not sure if my FB privacy settings are right.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=106848374837&set=a.95935039837.108726.753524837&type=3

Then here's a pic of the el-cheapo just-jap core I used, tiny one for tiny engine and low power.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=129751174837&set=a.95935039837.108726.753524837&type=3

The Thermostat, no pic sorry, is no sitting under the cooler piping and is just cable tied to a bracket there.

I also did this on both sides, one to feed the oil cooler and the other for the CAI for the Pod, I also have the pickup for my brake ducts coming from there also. And if it isn't already, slot the inside of the guard plastic behind the cooler core or else air will never flow through it properly.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=129751164837&set=a.95935039837.108726.753524837&type=3&permPage=1

If you can, do the whole thing in braided lines with sexy fittings. I didn't have any spare lines on hand for the core install but had suitable hose and very high quality fittings and hose clamps. Everyone said it would leak, but it's done 3000k's so far and has bounced of countless ripple strips without any issues. Thread sealant and good hose clamps do wonders.

Edited by ActionDan
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Nah i do agree. Was just saying :) Like i said, i want a grex plate. So that would mean my sensor would be on the block too hehe.

But after all that about safety, and you use thread tape on an oil system? You must be nuts LOL!

I emailed mocal direct when i built my oil cooler system, as id never done it before and they replied with capitals "NEVER USE THREAD TAPE ON AN OIL COOLER SYSTEM" lol.

If you have high quality fittings, you will never need it. Mine hasnt leaked a drop.

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Thanks for the pics champ,

Looks setup really well considering.

Im thinking once we have it fitted, might look at fabbing up a little duct system maybe to just direct air, but should be sweet as down near the intercooler.

Again PICS look really good man, good job :thumbsup:

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Cheers guys, but in all seriousness mine is a really hack budget setup. Take a look in some of the build threads for ideas on how to make the setup look really pro and avoid some of the potential risks of my setup, leaks/heat etc.

Some of the guys on here are Wizards with time and money to spend.

Good luck in your setup :)

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That is correct i misread. Carry on ;)

PS:. braided lines or not, your cooler mounted like that looks awesome!

you reckon, ?

the oil cooler gets pretty hot and its sitting right next to the cold exit of the intercooler :closedeyes:

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