Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I dont think going over 400 rwmoves you from the club.... it just gives you the VIP pass

Lol well i wont say i didnt try ;) But happy to stay with you guise :wub:

Must really be wringing that 3076Rs neck though the external gate and manifold would make all the difference over an IW version and OE cast manifold .

I can't keep traction in the dry (1st or 2nd) with th poor little GTRS and 271 Kw and I though those 245/45 Mitchy Pilot Super Sports would be grippier .

I'm interested to hear what people think are the best all round , most responsive I suppose , 300 Kw capable turbos on engines with the best help ie cams and E70/E85 fuels . Those 2835 Pros sound like a good fit particularly if they came with everything to make them fit . I envy Wolverine for having the chance to try both . I know he sometimes misses the low down poke of the GTRS but thats a choice I guess you make if aiming for 290-300 wasps .

A .

Must really be wringing that 3076Rs neck though the external gate and manifold would make all the difference over an IW version and OE cast manifold .

I'm interested to hear what people think are the best all round , most responsive I suppose , 300 Kw capable turbos on engines with the best help ie cams and E70/E85 fuels . Those 2835 Pros sound like a good fit particularly if they came with everything to make them fit . I envy Wolverine for having the chance to try both . I know he sometimes misses the low down poke of the GTRS but thats a choice I guess you make if aiming for 290-300 wasps .

I have been saying it for years now, but I will say it again - I think the GT3076R HTA from Forced Performance is practically made for an RB25 without it being deliberate.

Christ, where do I start listing the advantages over the typical choices used on RB25s. Lets use the cast wheel GT3076R as a comparison, which is proven overall to be a good match for a stock RB25 road car to all but the scarediest of punters:

- 56 trim GT3076R compressor wheel is 30% heavier - HTA should give better transient response, less load on the engine exhaust to drive the compressor which can effect EBP and therefore safety for engine, turbo, and potentially help power

- Smaller hub (several mm) / thinner blades mean more air moved through the same surface area. ie, more airflow for an given aero design, more air moved for given shaft rpm (more + for response here), just generally better for moving air.

- Better aerodynamics, basically can help response (building boost pressure) and flow

- Bigger compressor cover with some sneaky porting (so I am told) to help with the efficiency theme

- HTA compressor wheel has a smaller inducer, lower trim - aka better surge resistance, better spool for exducer size (ignoring mass and aero)

- HTA compressor wheel exducer is no larger (vs GTX and other power upgrade options) which means that the whole rotating assembly can potentially get to higher rpm without certain speed of sound related issues which impede flow, also the higher speed the compressor can spin to the higher speed the turbine can spin to, which effectively increases the turbine efficiency

Net effect is a turbo which on a dyno should show AT WORST no more lag over a GT3076R (potential for less) under steady load and a transient response more like a cast GT3071R, which can flow more like a GTX3076R and have a turbine which can effectively flow (due to the combination of the bunch) better than a GT30 would with an inferior wheel match.

20c says that as soon as someone FINALLY gets one on an RB25 and a decent tune on it, whether it is just a stock RB25 with basic boltons, or a full house one pushing the thing hard - it will be a very decent result.

The pro s still has plenty of low down poke. Mine is happily making 200kw at 4k and is @20psi by around 3250rpm. For some reason it is appearing to nose over a bit up top (277kw on 98, will find out later what it can do on meth)

We did have a bit of a knock problem which the meth has totally eliminated so I am making progress. I am hoping we can utilize the meth the lean it out a bit, play with the timing and hopefully the numbers will start to climb.

I know the potential is there, look at Hamish's e85 numbers, and our setup is very similar. We do have our suspicions that the engine is getting a little tired so will do a comp test.

We will work it out

I have been saying it for years now, but I will say it again - I think the GT3076R HTA from Forced Performance is practically made for an RB25 without it being deliberate.

Christ, where do I start listing the advantages over the typical choices used on RB25s. Lets use the cast wheel GT3076R as a comparison, which is proven overall to be a good match for a stock RB25 road car to all but the scarediest of punters:

- 56 trim GT3076R compressor wheel is 30% heavier - HTA should give better transient response, less load on the engine exhaust to drive the compressor which can effect EBP and therefore safety for engine, turbo, and potentially help power

- Smaller hub (several mm) / thinner blades mean more air moved through the same surface area. ie, more airflow for an given aero design, more air moved for given shaft rpm (more + for response here), just generally better for moving air.

- Better aerodynamics, basically can help response (building boost pressure) and flow

- Bigger compressor cover with some sneaky porting (so I am told) to help with the efficiency theme

- HTA compressor wheel has a smaller inducer, lower trim - aka better surge resistance, better spool for exducer size (ignoring mass and aero)

- HTA compressor wheel exducer is no larger (vs GTX and other power upgrade options) which means that the whole rotating assembly can potentially get to higher rpm without certain speed of sound related issues which impede flow, also the higher speed the compressor can spin to the higher speed the turbine can spin to, which effectively increases the turbine efficiency

Net effect is a turbo which on a dyno should show AT WORST no more lag over a GT3076R (potential for less) under steady load and a transient response more like a cast GT3071R, which can flow more like a GTX3076R and have a turbine which can effectively flow (due to the combination of the bunch) better than a GT30 would with an inferior wheel match.

20c says that as soon as someone FINALLY gets one on an RB25 and a decent tune on it, whether it is just a stock RB25 with basic boltons, or a full house one pushing the thing hard - it will be a very decent result.

For those that read this and wonder IF it could really be, could all this be true? Or is Lithium just rambling shit? Here is the answer -

  • Like 1

Here is R34geeTeeTee's new FP HTA GT3076R results overlaid with his old GT3076R result shouldn't need to explain which is which ;)

post-11136-0-86962400-1369387254_thumb.png

So people have targetted 200rwkw by 4000rpm as being a benchmark for a good street RB25 - this exceeds that by over 30kw, and manages to also supply 390rwkw on 24psi. Where's that cake?

post-11136-0-81649200-1369387450_thumb.png

Holy shit that thing spools so fast and just keeps revving! Got a dyno printout?

Just to confirm are you running the FP 3076R?

Yep, The one i have been hiding for the last 6 weeks from you guys :P

whats with you and turbos falling off up top.. hold that 28 baby all the way to make 400!

FP recommends it, not sure i understand it yet but i will learn ;) And im more than happy with my 391 haha

The pro s still has plenty of low down poke. Mine is happily making 200kw at 4k and is @20psi by around 3250rpm. For some reason it is appearing to nose over a bit up top (277kw on 98, will find out later what it can do on meth)

We did have a bit of a knock problem which the meth has totally eliminated so I am making progress. I am hoping we can utilize the meth the lean it out a bit, play with the timing and hopefully the numbers will start to climb.

I know the potential is there, look at Hamish's e85 numbers, and our setup is very similar. We do have our suspicions that the engine is getting a little tired so will do a comp test.

We will work it out

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

It's almost the same power as mine made on Jez's dyno with 98ron so it must be there or thereabouts. Comparing it to a different dyno in a different state might be bit hit and miss.

Holy shit that thing spools so fast and just keeps revving! Got a dyno printout?

Just to confirm are you running the FP 3076R?

Yep, The one i have been hiding for the last 6 weeks from you guys :P

Sonofabitch! Glad you got such a good result mate, now you just need to get your ass to a texi and drive it.

Sonofabitch! Glad you got such a good result mate, now you just need to get your ass to a texi and drive it.

Lol go back through the threads and you will see so many comments from me in the last 6-8 weeks about HTA turbos :P Anyway, it was an epic result and i think a good benchmark for the street warrior we all want! Can do track, drag and street no problem... Oh and the biggest thing is, the car looks and sounds stock!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done.  
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
×
×
  • Create New...