Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 months later...
  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

has anyone actually done any back to back performance testing on lightweight shafts vs stock?

in principal, all its doing is reducing some rotational inertia in the driveline, just like getting a lightweight flywheel (which i've done, and can confirm made no noticeable difference, not even a placebo effect).

i think the weight savings sound great on paper, but by the time the driveline takes load, any weight savings (and effects of) turn out to be pretty negligible and unsubstantial in the grand scheme of things.

you wont even get wank factor because no one will even see it lol

a lightweight prop shaft (and wheels etc) reduces rotational inertia in the driveline. A lightweight flywheel reduces inertia on the rpm of the engine , ie , improves ramp speeds in rpm which gives quicker revs with no weight behind it (on off throttle etc or free rev), it wont make much difference to the cars acceleration, thats why you didnt notice it. a combination of all factors makes all the difference.

yeah true thats what i was thinking, the combination of both factors would definitely be greater than any one on their own. but even then, what was the actual gain in performance? would it be substantial, reasonable or negligible?

and then considering the cost, is it worth it? thats up to each driver to decide.. but in my mind i'm skeptical.

and yes i realise the flywheel only effects the ramp speeds in rpm of the engine with no load, but once under load it then adds to the sum of rotational mass within the driveline, so both contribute to performance in that aspect in the same way.

  • 2 years later...

Hi guys,

I would like to revive this topic because I would like to get one and I have not heard many feedback from the CTG/Torqline driveshaft, about the vibration in high speed driving. Besides the more statistic the better.

Thanks in advance.

The main issue with one piece shafts of any kind is they need to be perfectly aligned off the gearbox to the diff for there to be no vibration. I have worked on a few of these one piece upgrades and most have vibration. Carbon would likely make the issue worse.

  • 3 weeks later...

I'd be interested in knowing if the boys bought the shafts and what they thought of them.

I'd have to be due for a tailshaft rebuild soon and one of these might be price wise a better option.

Cheers

Neil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...