Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

We took our R32 GTR out to the circuit last weekend and everything was great until we got the car home and up onto the axle stands to inspect everything.

When we took the front tyres off we noticed the inside wall of the tyres was starting to come apart (see pictures)

We don't feel we ran them too low pressure wise (we started off with 28 psi cold) and then worked towards a 32psi hot on all four tyres.

There's no visible damage to the outside wall of the tyres

The main tyre that is really bad is the left hand front tyre (inside wall), the two main almost hairpin corners at the track are right hand corners and the track is predominantly right hand corners and quite high speed.

Any thought as to what has caused this? The New Zealand Michelin Motorsport tyre distributor has told us we ran the pressure too low which we dispute.

Tyre size is 240/640R17

Prior to this session at the track the slicks had done twelve laps.

photo3cb.jpg

photo4ko.jpg

photo6wr.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390037-michelin-slicks-malfunction/
Share on other sites

Rubbing wasn't the issue if you look at the last two pictures you can see the writing on the side wall perfectly untouched and also the ribbed lines the run across the sidewall.

So what was the days temperature, any idea on track temp, camber and toe settings

We have been having the same issues with another tyre over here on V8 touring car only on hot days and extreme loads.

Don't try and run the tyres again chords are broken

If you are sure pressures were correct, pending on camber and toe settings, tyres look to have been very hot? - if not, I would say - its a tyre case issue

Hi guys,

We took our R32 GTR out to the circuit last weekend and everything was great until we got the car home and up onto the axle stands to inspect everything.

When we took the front tyres off we noticed the inside wall of the tyres was starting to come apart (see pictures)

We don't feel we ran them too low pressure wise (we started off with 28 psi cold) and then worked towards a 32psi hot on all four tyres.

There's no visible damage to the outside wall of the tyres

The main tyre that is really bad is the left hand front tyre (inside wall), the two main almost hairpin corners at the track are right hand corners and the track is predominantly right hand corners and quite high speed.

Any thought as to what has caused this? The New Zealand Michelin Motorsport tyre distributor has told us we ran the pressure too low which we dispute.

Tyre size is 240/640R17

Prior to this session at the track the slicks had done twelve laps.

photo3cb.jpg

photo4ko.jpg

photo6wr.jpg

Thanks for the replies so far chaps,

To answer a few questions in no particular order :)

- No pyro reading as we don't yet own a pyrometer

- The temperature on the day was no more than 20 degrees, it was an overcast day so not too hot. Not sure on the temperature of the track surface itself

We started the day with 28psi cold all round and worked from there We were aiming for 32psi all round hot and were pretty close to that after letting one or two psi out after our first session. We took pressure readings immediately after pitting the car and took note of them. (off the top of my head the highest reading I would have seen was 34psi hot and the lowest 32psi hot)

There is very slight rubbing on the front plastic wheel arch liner but the is only on near full lock and only affects the outside wall of the tyre.(there's no way we would see anywhere near full lock at this track)

If there was rubbing elsewhere surely that would show up on the tyre itself wouldn't it? There is very little evidence that I can see looking at the pictures that I can see.

Picture of the car (sitting far too high as we had just put new springs in the front)

img0306le.jpg

Camber 4 degrees, caster almost 7 degrees, Front toe 0mm

img0268cv.jpg

I have seen that before with that size and compound tyre - even with brand new stock - especially on powerful cars.

I always recommend 270 68 18 for the R32 GTR. It's the rear tyre of the old Porsche Cup cars (not the Carrerra Cup 30 68 18 or GT cars as in Cup S and Cup RS 31 71 18)

It's looks like a hinge joint failure. Yokohama has a similar problem in the v8 brute ute class hence why they have little front end camber.. I've had this happen before at over 3.5 deg

On an off note if you can afford new slicks why not a cheap pyro?its one of the most important setup tools in racing

Edited by Fatstig

Hi guys,

Thanks for the insights :)

To answer a few more questions.

- blackrex, we've not had the tyres off the rims yet so aren't sure but should go ahead with removing them as they're only good for the bin now.

- Munroman, have you managed to fit a 680 rolling diameter rim under an R32 GTR? We'd love to go down this path as the Porsche Cup slicks are a dime a dozen over here. We did look into this before we went for 17"s but were told a 270 68 R18 wouldn't fit.

- Fastig, we can't afford new slicks (these were bought from Michelin New Zealand second hand) they had done a 12 lap test with them when we bought them. But will definitely get pyrometer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That R31 was so cool. Only did Orange Park once. Scared the hell out of me.
    • Selling my TE37SLs since I've switched to smaller wheels.  They're for sale in Japan but it's pretty simple to send them overseas; USA excluded, since JPPost isn't sending there at the moment. Specs Front: 18x9.5j +22 5x114 Rear: 18x10j +20 5x114 Price: 320,000 JPY/ 3,285 AUD (current FX rate) Condition: a few scratches here and there, no bends, distortions or cracks.  Tires will not be included for international buyers, I'll get them dismounted before shipping. They're currently listed on yahoo auction and will be shipped in Japan with the tires if they sell here. Shipping costs to Aus: EMS (1-2 weeks): AUD 1,175 (current FX rate) Sea (2 months): AUD 460  (current FX rate)
    • The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
×
×
  • Create New...