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Rb26 Oil Control On Circuits

djr81

By djr81,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

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r33_racer
r33_racer

The ACL/Ross pistons I have seen have the closest ring set. I have ACL/Ross's in my RB25 and they have a 1.2mm top and a 1.5mm second. Maybe they have changed it to a 1.5mm on both which is great ne

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The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

I've just purchased a -10 non return valve thingie from Earls, it will be fitted on the return line from the can to the sump, they don't do -12 so it will have some adaptors, Damn these things cost.

Fingers crossed this will help if there is oil being pushed up the hose.

Eastern creek on Sunday, I'm hoping this helps.

I should have went dry sump at the start of the build, things would have been so much simpler.

The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

remember to remove the spring out of the valve, otherwise it won't drain back.

The one I'm getting doesn't have a spring (sort of), it is a flap which only needs .5psi to seal, the guy said it will flow until a 0.5psi backpressure hits it.

P/N 251010

At least I hope that how it works, for almost $300 I would hate to get the wrong part.

Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted

Gotta love earls retail pricing.

I use the same "valve" occasionally in some of the boats I do dry sumps for.

They work okay in theory but can cause more issues than they solve when the engine isn't breathing right to begin with.

  • 2 weeks later...
The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

Finaly sorted my oil problems, my return line to the sump and the hot side head drain/vent fittings were to low on the sump, on hard right hand corners the oil would push UP the drain/vent.

In essance I had a - 12 restrictor filling the head and a self filling catch can on anything that involved turning right.

With the catch can return line having the one way valve and the head drain/vent being moved to the turbo oil return all issues were solved.

The drain/vent on the cold side are right at the top of the sump and are not causing any issues.

I did a new PB of 1:52 at the creek last Sunday too, after doing 2 sessions of testing I got up it a bit on the 3rd and the car loved it, not a drop of oil anywhere.

Im stoked, FINALY.

iplen Mentor

iplen

Posted
Posted

one question, what fittings are used for the oil cap drain?

i assume the fitting allows for the oil cap to still be used? ie. be able to twist on and off

It's an earls fitting, it is rubbing the bonnet though (by so little it isnt funny) will have to try to change the angle it sits at to avoid this. The fitting does allow the cap to spin easily.

The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

Woohooo, and my theory from all those months ago was right....so time to open a workshop for me haha

Good work on the pb :)

Thanks mate, it was something so simple in the end, so simple we didnt even concider it, D'oh!

eXquiSit Mentor

eXquiSit

Posted
Posted

Finaly sorted my oil problems, my return line to the sump and the hot side head drain/vent fittings were to low on the sump, on hard right hand corners the oil would push UP the drain/vent.

In essance I had a - 12 restrictor filling the head and a self filling catch can on anything that involved turning right.

With the catch can return line having the one way valve and the head drain/vent being moved to the turbo oil return all issues were solved.

The drain/vent on the cold side are right at the top of the sump and are not causing any issues.

I did a new PB of 1:52 at the creek last Sunday too, after doing 2 sessions of testing I got up it a bit on the 3rd and the car loved it, not a drop of oil anywhere.

Im stoked, FINALY.

mlr: would it be too much trouble to bother you for some photos of the setup please??

=)

It's an earls fitting, it is rubbing the bonnet though (by so little it isnt funny) will have to try to change the angle it sits at to avoid this. The fitting does allow the cap to spin easily.

iplen: nice nice

do you have the part number for this fitting?

thanks!

=)

The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

mlr: would it be too much trouble to bother you for some photos of the setup please??

Im taking the car to work this weekend to put on the maintanance ramps, Ill take some photos of it when its up there and the undertray is off.

sycorb Mentor

sycorb

Posted
Posted

this might be a silly comment.i have a similar set to r32 stuart but without the line from the oil filler cap.You guys are saying to drain back to sump from catch can i haven't drained back .When i empty my catch can ther is only water in it.im pretty sure you dont want that going back into your sump .Am i on the right track here

thanks

iplen Mentor

iplen

Posted
Posted (edited)

If you are getting water out of your oil catch can you have issues.. Big ones.. Exquisit, will try to get the part number for you, and will upload some shots when I am on a PC instead of the phone..

Edited by iplen
The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

If you are getting water out of your oil catch can you have issues.. Big ones.. Exquisit, will try to get the part number for you, and will upload some shots when I am on a PC instead of the phone..

The oily water in the catch can gets there by the little bit of oil and heat sucking the water out of the atmosphere, Im not saying you should have a heap of water in it but it does get in, expecially when the catch can doesnt drain back it will build up over time, and due to the fact that the inside of the catch can doesnt get very hot the water doesnt cook off.

Put some oil on the stove and heat it up and then let it cool 10 or 20 times, the oil will turn watery when it cools, simple physics is simple.

The same happens in the sump but because the sump oil gets hot it cooks off the water.

This alsois why big deisel engines have fuel/water seperators, the deisel in the tank gets warm and when it cools it absorbs water.

Put even simplyer (?) sit in you car on a cold day, the windows will fog up, this is due to the air inside is warmer than the air outside thus causing condensation.

The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

This is the one way valve

This the hot side head drain/vent which goes to the turbo drain

Hot side head fitting

Front 25 head drain blocked

This is the regulator that was fitted to drop the oil pressure from the TOMEI from 140 psi @ 6000rpm to 105psi at 6000rpm

From the regulator a bleed line goes to the sump

This is the fitting in the side of the head that has the restrictor, the restrictors in the block are both blocked off, this feeds the head oil, it takes 5 minutes to swap a restrictor, another external line geos to the VCT.

The 25 head has 26 covers with mines baffles, the head vents to the catch can Via -12 fittings, the catch can has 2 30mm filters under the pod cover plate.

Time for a Scotch...................

.

mlr: would it be too much trouble to bother you for some photos of the setup please??

=)

  • 1 month later...

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