Jump to content
SAU Community

Blitz Return Flow Fmic

TR33GT-001

By TR33GT-001,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

I had a Cooling Pro one - was fine up to 240kw but over 250 tuner said it was not up to it so got an HDi (non return type). If you want a return type and 280 or so kw the Blitz seems a better performer.

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

I have a Blitz CS, it's fantastic. Don't skimp on parts if you can afford the big brands...they hold their value if you ever want to get rid of them and they can save you many headaches because you can usually rule them out when you have car troubles.

def_jamz112 Collaborator

def_jamz112

Posted
Posted

I've got cooling pro 600x300 doing 300kw no problem

The turnflow type is 600 x 240 x 60, yours is probably the same as the blitz.

The main reason for wanting a cooling pro is i really wanted a black one and the other things like its smaller so less lag and better fitment but they dont seem to be an issue for anyone. So 250 would be the most you comfortably push through one of these?

Thanks for all the feed back on the blitz, it does sound like the better option, hope the SE is just as good as the CS though.

How can you colour the blitz black? Haha.

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted (edited)

The turnflow type is 600 x 240 x 60, yours is probably the same as the blitz.

The main reason for wanting a cooling pro is i really wanted a black one and the other things like its smaller so less lag and better fitment but they dont seem to be an issue for anyone. So 250 would be the most you comfortably push through one of these?

Thanks for all the feed back on the blitz, it does sound like the better option, hope the SE is just as good as the CS though.

How can you colour the blitz black? Haha.

Im getting 315 on e85 with one and had 270 on 98 without problems for 4 years. The only time it reached it limits and got heatsoaked was after about 20 min continous drifting on a 39 degree day.

Edited by boostn0199
def_jamz112 Collaborator

def_jamz112

Posted
Posted

Im getting 315 on e85 with one and had 270 on 98 without problems for 4 years. The only time it reached it limits and got heatsoaked was after about 20 min continous drifting on a 39 degree day.

Is that on the cp or the blitz?

  • 11 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...