Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The time is coming for me to get a tune I have a just purchased a haltech for my my r32 and im in the south of the state, wondering who is any good for cost and ease to deal with na major mods hoping for sorta 210 plus but should get there fairly easy just hear horror stories with their tunes and big dollars

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/391710-who-should-tune-my-car/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

How much was the tune? Are you happy? Satisfied?

Nick is excellent on the dyno... he pushes out some great tunes and is willing to work with you to get the result your looking for. He's a wealth of knowledge, so listen up.

Also, don't take a half done car to the dyno, make shure everything is sorted out before you drop it off.

Cheers

Justin

$1000000

He's lying. It cost much, much more than that. He won't tell me either, it worries me that he's probably given up his first born son or something..

Slightly more on topic, I've heard a lot of good things about GT but it really comes down to who you talk to and what you're doing I think :) For what it's worth, I reckon I'll take my car to GT for it's first tune.

yeah it's around $800 for an epic tune.

Brad at Boost would be my choice if I was up north.

If you want a built engine, get that 26\30 that Jangles is selling in the other thread, it's only $4k!!!

haltech will run the shit out of it.

Applications: Nissan Skyline R32, Nissan Skyline R33 Variations: GT-R, GTS-t Engine Codes: RB25DET, RB26DETT

I heard Xrated has some epic turbos for sale. $2500, add a bit more for manifolds, fronts and dumps, and lines. Should be mint.

Edited by zoidbergmerc

well do you want big power or not spend lots of money? They're your two options :P

200kw at the treads is enough to have fun with though.

Nick @ GT Garage is back from Holidays next week, I found e-mail is the best way to contact him.

this thread has quickly turned into i want something but dont want to spend money.

Im not saying buy it, but you would be hard pressed to get anything near the cost.

Power costs money, for 210kw you dont even need a haltech, save your money, buy a nistune and then once youve got your new motor/setup buy a more capable ecu

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...