Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My definition of Side stepping is;

- Hold the clutch pedal down

- Bring engine to desired RPM

- Move your foot sideways off the clutch ("sidestep") and let the clutch spring take over

All it does is let any little slackness close and let the whole drivetrain lean on the clutch so when you pop it you don't have the little tollerences bang closed. The clutch won't do anything harmfull in comparison to the actual clutch drop

can someone please explain side stepping?

i got a 1.89 60ft by dropping the clutch at 7k with wheel spin all of first on the limiter lol. ran a 12.1

got 315 rwkw with 255/35/18 profile tyre. kept pressure at 36 because it was still bogging down at 6500 rpm .

with my setup how would use do it?

What brand tyres where they cheapies or actual quality?

Reason i ask is my mate cracked a 12.3 on a 34R with nothing but 1.2bar boost on the stock ceramics and a full exhaust with Bridgestone RE01's (still running std injectors, fuel pump, ecu). It was only about 255awkw from memory too.

So is launching the car in 2nd the way to go? Or is that only if you have a certain amount of power at the wheels. Ive got just over 280 awkw so would it be best in first or second?

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_eR-39CK9Y&sns=em

Hey Xklaba u remember me beating u a few years ago in my old GTR?

Man i suck at Embedding vids with my phone. Have to copy to address bar

yeah I remember, and that smoke was number 2 piston going bye bye, I had run 11.36 before that and I have sence run 11.13 with only 293rwkw and stock turbos :P

hand brake is the best way IF you have a good clutch, other wise no hand brake dial in 7000-7500 and just find friction piont then ride out works for me

second gear launchs in standed ratio 34 or 32 and 33 with 4.33 diff ratios other wise use first and short shift to second

  • 2 months later...

^^ how i launched afew weeks back, although only took it to 6800rpm to launch, finding the friction point then riding out gets best traction and 60ft times too

gonna try 7000-7500rpm next time and see what difference it makes

what sort of tyre pressures did you run XKLABA ?

street tyres ( 265/35/18) I run 30 psi, you need the pressure to keep the centre of the tyre flat on the ground with even pressure across the tread and since the side walls of low profile tyres don't twist/flex there is no advantage to lowering the pressures, all it does is make the side walls take the weight and reduce the grip in the middle of the tyre

Drag tyres, ( 255/50/16 Toyo TQs ) 18-20psi, opposite of the street tyre reasoning

bahaha, standard ratio R33 GTR, use first and short shift into second, even with stock turbos that get 19psi by 2800rpm it's hard to keep it on boost on a second gear launch, so much so I don't even try it anymore and I reeeaaally hate clutchs

best last night for me was 11.3sec again, but this time with a 127.5mph....7500rpm clutch slip seemed to work good and not bog down....traction was abit of an issue though :/

going drags is getting addictive

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...