Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so today i received my Tarzan G Box in the mail, so it was straight down to the garage to put it in.

here is what the kit contains

C2C1F8E6-5F7D-475D-8DF8-85EF6B4CFB8D-7097-00000561CAEFE99E.jpg

unplugged the old sensor and slid the plugs off

7A73055B-C17B-49CF-9F0F-FE9B9DEA5336-7097-00000561E04B60BA.jpg

new one plugged in!!

5584D720-5802-4781-A0A1-FBBE75EE9DE7-7097-00000561F30ED504.jpg

Now that was all well and good but once trying to re fit the centre console, i bumped into my first problem..... the g sensor now sits too high ontop of the standard position. Which stops you from putting in the side screws and if pressed down too hard, pops off the coin holder compartment.

Due to time constraints, i just had to leave it for now and come back to it.

The Test Drive

During normal driving obviously there is no notice at all, its until you press down the accelerator that you really notice the change.

I brought the mrs along to have a second opinion as she loves the R to bits :P

We both confirmed straight away that acceleration has now become a lot smoother, almost so that it feels that the power has dropped back. As there is no longer the hard kick when the turbo's come on!!!

Then through corners it instills courage as the car is noticeably more planted and firm, its almost like you can feel the attessa working more and sending the power where it should be. Also you can tell how much more responsive the torque needle is (even though reading its not really accurate) when sending torque to the front.

Yes the braking feel has also been improved, there is less movement and the weight seems to transfer alot smoother also when getting on the middle pedal.

Lets just say that it put a smile on my face and has change the way the car handles, so i give it a thumbs up. Yes it is a bit pricey, but hey its what cars are about!!

Looking forward to going for my next drive already!!

  • Replies 102
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I have a couple of negative opinions on the build for this car. It was a pretty clean series 3 except the bonnet at the start. You did the right thing changing it back to factory bonnet. Series 3 is probably so rare that I would expect owners to keep it full factory on the exterior and minimal change on the interior. those blue LED really shouldn't have gone in factory boost and oil temp gauge in the centre...Carbon dash and centre console is kindda ok but Id really still keep it stock unless they are really scratched up. And that front lip is really something there to just ruin the beauty of an r33. A genuine series 3 V spec front lip is more than enough to make your car look mean. With cars like GTRs looks, more is less and less is more. Last but not least, a GTR has to have big power, so save all that effort for making it a fast powerful and RELIABLE weapon. Good luck.

Interesting views, but it is up to the owner to decide what he does with his own car. If what he is doing makes him happy and its getting closer to perfect in his eyes - that's all that matters.

Some nice features on the car Raimie, keen to see the progress and end result!

Thanks for all the input guys, Wei- thanks for your input but at the end of the day your view is going to be different to someone else's. I've had ALOT of positive feedback to how the R looks now as photos don't do it justice and hey, not every is in for the clean look. The Japanese time attack/street tuning style is what I aspire to hence the lip. Let's face it how much of that BIG power can you use on the street (where mine is driven 100% of the time) and if it's making big power reliability is another thing all together, plus maintenance fee's. Bit of advice- let people build cars the way they want too, otherwise the scene would be dead and boring.

Anthony I got it through Jesse streeter.

Newest update

BF3D2593-5DEE-4C87-B0F9-FB72A5EF730A-5661-000005004A63960B.jpg

Racepace built R34 is now under my wing

Edited by JDM33

thanks James, hope to have some new photos of the R's soon!!

:thumbsup:

mods might have to wait till the new year. though there isn't much left to do on the 34

Was that Muztek's 34?

Shame I won't see it around Vic anymore. But you've managed to get a beautiful car!

  • 3 weeks later...

Bride's have been swapped from 33 to 34.

IMG_2112.jpg

Trying to figure out what i want to do with the 34, performance wise i'm pretty happy, just a few things need changing/updating.

But il keeping the exterior how it is, mostly for now. Went for a cruise recently with some mates, including a 2.4LTR EVO VIII.

IMG_2115.jpg

IMG_2108.jpg

IMG_2107.jpg

IMG_2105.jpg

IMG_2104.jpg

I only just received the San-Yon last week and i just want to drive the thing all day! well thought out mods both inside and out.

  • 1 month later...

Gee'd up the rear of the R with some Qest LED's this arvo.

IMG_2309.jpg

IMG_2310.jpg

IMG_2312.jpg

after

IMG_2316.jpg

IMG_2318.jpg

IMG_2320.jpg

IMG_2321.jpg

The light is so much brighter and clearer now!!! Gonna look killer at night. Will post better pics once i'm finished with the rear

Very nice pair of R's Raimie. Needs some led tailights too. But at 1200 bucks a set i can't justify the cost. What does the tarzan sensor in the 33 feeling like? Make it handle abit more like the 34?

Thanks mate :) nismo tail lights have been ordered, just waiting on dispatch- mofo's ain't cheap! Yeah in a way I guess, the sensor is set up to under steer a touch more. But that's only once your really pushing it, with different suspension mods it's a bit hard to compare the two but the sensor has made the 33 a lot smoother to drive and more predictable

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...