Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So the extremes pf Perth weather seems to be too much for my stock radiator (f**ker is probably blocking up again like they do on R33's etc...)

So i have purchased a new 52mm aluminium radiator to go in it.

My question is, should i have the block etc cooling system pressure/reverse flushed before i put the new radiator on or would that be overkill?

Just a bit concerned that i might have a buildup of sediment throught the cooling channels in the motor (also contributing to its tendency to get too hot), also that in the future there might be shit to dislodge and then end up starting the blocking process in my new radiator...

then again, changing a radiator is a job i can do free of charge, the alternative is paying a workshop to exchange the radiators and do the flush at the time which i wouldnt mind avoiding if its possible (and unneccessary)...

thoughts/ experience?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/394634-installing-a-new-radiator/
Share on other sites

So the extremes pf Perth weather seems to be too much for my stock radiator (f**ker is probably blocking up again like they do on R33's etc...)

So i have purchased a new 52mm aluminium radiator to go in it.

My question is, should i have the block etc cooling system pressure/reverse flushed before i put the new radiator on or would that be overkill?

Just a bit concerned that i might have a buildup of sediment throught the cooling channels in the motor (also contributing to its tendency to get too hot), also that in the future there might be shit to dislodge and then end up starting the blocking process in my new radiator...

then again, changing a radiator is a job i can do free of charge, the alternative is paying a workshop to exchange the radiators and do the flush at the time which i wouldnt mind avoiding if its possible (and unneccessary)...

thoughts/ experience?

My thoughts. Any crap in the block is gunna end up in the new shiny radiator if you do not flush the said crap out. Up to you.

Cheers GW

Already done :thumbsup:

yeah im pretty good with bolts n my mate has a 4 point hoist so should be able to get at it ok...

Replace thermostat and radiator cap with OEM stuff from nissan while you are at it.

they are about $30 and $20 respectively.

oh and good luck getting that drain bolt off the block.. :D

how would i do the bottom hose? the thermostat will be closed n block any water coming out no?

i was planning on sealing the garden hose onto the top radiator hose n just blasting it until what comes out the drain plug looks clean....

shall i run the car at the same time n turn on the heater to open the heater core?

Don't forget to do the heater core aswell. Also put the hose in both front radiator hoses plus the two from the heater to the engine. Keep repeating till the water is coming out clear.

yeah i was figuring on having the car dead cold n starting the flush that way n then starting it after a while n turning on the heater to flush the core out.

Prob only run it for 60 secs like that...

shouldnt cause any probs should it?

ah yep.

goood point. Cheers.

my only other concern in this process is that am i likely to dislodge some crud in the system that could lodge in the turbo's coolant supply?

(my nice new HKS turbo that i want to life a long and healthy life...)

I've recently done mine..

Took the thermostat out first, disconnected top and bottom hoses from the rad.

Flushed water through the top hose until the bottom flowed clear, then flushed through the bottom hose until the top flowed clear, then did t all again.

Disconnected hoses from the heater at the firewall, flushed the heater core both ways, then flushed through both of the heater hoses as well, then went back to the top hose and did it all again twice.

Drained the water out, blew through all hoses to try and get more out, blew through the heater core to get the water out.

yeah seems like the comprehensive way to do it.

Tho i just did the thermostat so dont really want to pull that whole job apart again just to flush... guddammit :P

will defaintely do the heater core flush though n out the back of the motor from the drain plug.

might sus it on the day as to how patient im feeling n whether to get the thermostat out n flush right down to there.

might just put in a TEFBA filter n be done with it that way...

I've recently done mine..

Took the thermostat out first, disconnected top and bottom hoses from the rad.

Flushed water through the top hose until the bottom flowed clear, then flushed through the bottom hose until the top flowed clear, then did t all again.

Disconnected hoses from the heater at the firewall, flushed the heater core both ways, then flushed through both of the heater hoses as well, then went back to the top hose and did it all again twice.

Drained the water out, blew through all hoses to try and get more out, blew through the heater core to get the water out.

Edited by jjman

yeah but its a brand new one in there n also all of the gasket sealant job which is all working perfectly.

If i get in there something might f*k up n ill be dealing with something else... :P

But ur right, ill prob just have to man up on it :thumbsup:

the thermostat is only three bolts ya lazy bugger :P If your good you can do it with out taking off any hoses lol.

Lol iv never used gasket goo on any thermostat on any car ive ever owned. And just recently did the RB25.

Never had a leak. So i guess in my case its easier ha. :)

Bus seriously, unless you drain the block and all matter of gunk falls out with the coolant, just flush it as per normal. There wont be a much in there. I think some people are just far too pedantic about it. Its been mentioned before, Skylines arent some mystical creature that needs any extra special procedures for general maintenance ;)

As a precaution, just flush it without the radiator plumbed in so your shiny new rad doesnt get anything unwanted in it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
×
×
  • Create New...