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Installing A New Radiator

jjman

By jjman,
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jjman Mentor

jjman

Posted
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So the extremes pf Perth weather seems to be too much for my stock radiator (f**ker is probably blocking up again like they do on R33's etc...)

So i have purchased a new 52mm aluminium radiator to go in it.

My question is, should i have the block etc cooling system pressure/reverse flushed before i put the new radiator on or would that be overkill?

Just a bit concerned that i might have a buildup of sediment throught the cooling channels in the motor (also contributing to its tendency to get too hot), also that in the future there might be shit to dislodge and then end up starting the blocking process in my new radiator...

then again, changing a radiator is a job i can do free of charge, the alternative is paying a workshop to exchange the radiators and do the flush at the time which i wouldnt mind avoiding if its possible (and unneccessary)...

thoughts/ experience?

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260tech Proficient

260tech

Posted
Posted

So the extremes pf Perth weather seems to be too much for my stock radiator (f**ker is probably blocking up again like they do on R33's etc...)

So i have purchased a new 52mm aluminium radiator to go in it.

My question is, should i have the block etc cooling system pressure/reverse flushed before i put the new radiator on or would that be overkill?

Just a bit concerned that i might have a buildup of sediment throught the cooling channels in the motor (also contributing to its tendency to get too hot), also that in the future there might be shit to dislodge and then end up starting the blocking process in my new radiator...

then again, changing a radiator is a job i can do free of charge, the alternative is paying a workshop to exchange the radiators and do the flush at the time which i wouldnt mind avoiding if its possible (and unneccessary)...

thoughts/ experience?

My thoughts. Any crap in the block is gunna end up in the new shiny radiator if you do not flush the said crap out. Up to you.

Cheers GW

jjman Mentor

jjman

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  • Author
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Already done :thumbsup:

yeah im pretty good with bolts n my mate has a 4 point hoist so should be able to get at it ok...

Replace thermostat and radiator cap with OEM stuff from nissan while you are at it.

they are about $30 and $20 respectively.

oh and good luck getting that drain bolt off the block.. :D

jjman Mentor

jjman

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how would i do the bottom hose? the thermostat will be closed n block any water coming out no?

i was planning on sealing the garden hose onto the top radiator hose n just blasting it until what comes out the drain plug looks clean....

shall i run the car at the same time n turn on the heater to open the heater core?

Don't forget to do the heater core aswell. Also put the hose in both front radiator hoses plus the two from the heater to the engine. Keep repeating till the water is coming out clear.

jjman Mentor

jjman

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yeah i was figuring on having the car dead cold n starting the flush that way n then starting it after a while n turning on the heater to flush the core out.

Prob only run it for 60 secs like that...

shouldnt cause any probs should it?

jjman Mentor

jjman

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ah yep.

goood point. Cheers.

my only other concern in this process is that am i likely to dislodge some crud in the system that could lodge in the turbo's coolant supply?

(my nice new HKS turbo that i want to life a long and healthy life...)

nicr4wks Experienced

nicr4wks

Posted
Posted

I've recently done mine..

Took the thermostat out first, disconnected top and bottom hoses from the rad.

Flushed water through the top hose until the bottom flowed clear, then flushed through the bottom hose until the top flowed clear, then did t all again.

Disconnected hoses from the heater at the firewall, flushed the heater core both ways, then flushed through both of the heater hoses as well, then went back to the top hose and did it all again twice.

Drained the water out, blew through all hoses to try and get more out, blew through the heater core to get the water out.

jjman Mentor

jjman

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

yeah seems like the comprehensive way to do it.

Tho i just did the thermostat so dont really want to pull that whole job apart again just to flush... guddammit :P

will defaintely do the heater core flush though n out the back of the motor from the drain plug.

might sus it on the day as to how patient im feeling n whether to get the thermostat out n flush right down to there.

might just put in a TEFBA filter n be done with it that way...

I've recently done mine..

Took the thermostat out first, disconnected top and bottom hoses from the rad.

Flushed water through the top hose until the bottom flowed clear, then flushed through the bottom hose until the top flowed clear, then did t all again.

Disconnected hoses from the heater at the firewall, flushed the heater core both ways, then flushed through both of the heater hoses as well, then went back to the top hose and did it all again twice.

Drained the water out, blew through all hoses to try and get more out, blew through the heater core to get the water out.

Edited by jjman
jjman Mentor

jjman

Posted
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yeah but its a brand new one in there n also all of the gasket sealant job which is all working perfectly.

If i get in there something might f*k up n ill be dealing with something else... :P

But ur right, ill prob just have to man up on it :thumbsup:

the thermostat is only three bolts ya lazy bugger :P If your good you can do it with out taking off any hoses lol.

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted

Lol iv never used gasket goo on any thermostat on any car ive ever owned. And just recently did the RB25.

Never had a leak. So i guess in my case its easier ha. :)

Bus seriously, unless you drain the block and all matter of gunk falls out with the coolant, just flush it as per normal. There wont be a much in there. I think some people are just far too pedantic about it. Its been mentioned before, Skylines arent some mystical creature that needs any extra special procedures for general maintenance ;)

As a precaution, just flush it without the radiator plumbed in so your shiny new rad doesnt get anything unwanted in it.

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