Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone this is my first post here so it could be in the wrong catergory if so, sorry. so im currently looking at buying this r33 but mymaon problem is that the aircon hasen't been gassed since its been imported (approx 5 years ago) and i cant drive a car without the aircon so i plan on getting it regassed asap but i have been told by a friend of mine that i could be looking at up to $2000 to get the aircon working again because it hasent been used in so long, but another friend tells me nissans engage the aircon when in reverse to avoid this and then another friend tells me the o-rings should be fine because its all sealed up and therefore the o-rings cant dry out. So now im really confused and need your help. I have used the heater in the car and that seems to run fine if that makes any difference.

Appreciate any help given

Ps1Locybe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/395188-r33-aircon-re-gassing-help/
Share on other sites

hey mate, if u r serious about buying that car, tell the owner youll take it IF he re gasses it and obviously it is working, get the money ready, go with him to the workshop to have it done so he knows your serious, on that basis im sure he would be happy to get it done. Also, make it clear if the thing doesnt work after it is regassed your not interested or somthing along those lines.

G luk.

Thanks Nathanau thats smart thinking, the owner of the car is my best mate so im not to worried, he is only selling it to me for $3500 so im not to fussy i am more or less just hoping to hear that nissans do indeed engage the aircon in reverse or that i should be able to get away with just a re-gas but im guessing its alot more complicated than that, im

Not mechanically minded hahahaha. I greatly appreciate your speedy reply Nathanau :)

Hi everyone this is my first post here so it could be in the wrong catergory if so, sorry. so im currently looking at buying this r33 but mymaon problem is that the aircon hasen't been gassed since its been imported (approx 5 years ago) and i cant drive a car without the aircon so i plan on getting it regassed asap but i have been told by a friend of mine that i could be looking at up to $2000 to get the aircon working again because it hasent been used in so long, but another friend tells me nissans engage the aircon when in reverse to avoid this and then another friend tells me the o-rings should be fine because its all sealed up and therefore the o-rings cant dry out. So now im really confused and need your help. I have used the heater in the car and that seems to run fine if that makes any difference.

Appreciate any help given

Ps1Locybe

seriously dude, just get the yellow pages and find an aircon specialist in your area. call him. tell him what you just told us, and get an ACTUAL answer. it will take you 30 seconds, and then you will know for sure.

Even with a best buddy, still tell him that his $$$ is waiting for him when he comes back with the A/C working!

If I was your mate, that's what I'd do for a 'delicate flower' like you.

I only say that 'cause I have none. Hehe...

Almost positive it won't engage in reverse. Think that's a euro car spec. If the system is together and sealed up then it should just need a dryer(filter) then re-gas which should only be a few hundred bucks or so. Worst case if the compressor seals are leaking then you could prob get one from a member on here for 50 bucks if you look around. Unsure on cost of new compressor.

never heard about nissans engaging the aircon in reverse.

The N13 Pulsar my cousins had used to do that. Never heard of skylines doing it tho. Also, skylines have a pressure switch such that if there is not enough gas pressure in the system, it wont throw the magnetic clutch to engage the compressor.

OP - since it doesnt work, assume the compressor is stuffed pay the price you think the car is worth less the cost to supply and fit a new compressor, regas etc. $2000 seems reasonable once you include all the stuffing around.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...