Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

i decided to go for a drive in my 32 last night, i hadn't driven it for a week and it has developed some strange issues; the HIDs were flickering on and off, and the power steering was cutting out and there was a high pitch buzz coming through the speakers.

the only thing i have done to the car recently was put new coil packs in and re gapped the spark plugs, but that was 3 weeks ago and it was running fine until now...

I know its hard with electrical fault but i was just wondering if any of you have come across this before or you have any suggestions for me?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/395795-r32-gtst-electrical-problems/
Share on other sites

Yea unless there is one under the valley cover i forgot about the only earth i would have touched would be the one on the ignition pack, which seems fine... but i just went and double checked it and the car has lost all power now, the battery is still nice and tight and reasonabley new, so i guess ill have to pull the multi meter out tomorrow.

So yesterday i tested the battery and found that when its disconnected it has approx 12.04v then when i hook it up it drops right down to 2.01v... i tried disconnecting the HIDs, audio system and coil packs one at a time with no change in voltage (they are the only aftermarket electrics in the car) so my thoughts are there may be a short somewhere?

I put a new battery in about 3 month ago.. but this one may be rooted because i know my amp was killing the battery (i took that out a few weeks back) i just thought if the battery was gone it would have had more trouble starting when i first noticed the issues with the headlights and power steering... And there seem to be something drawing way to much current anyway coz it drops 10v when i hook it up... but ill see if i can borrow a healthy battery from one of my mates and see what happens

Yea i tried that and had no notable change.. I went and got a battery print out this afternoon and it said "charge system failure" so looks like an alternator.. im told that they can collapse and the internals can touch together which could be causing the drop in voltage..

So i fully charged the battery and started up the car with a multi meter hooked up to the battery; started out at about 12.8 volts and dropped down to 12.2 as the car reached operating temperature.. when i reved the engine the reading went up to 13.2, so the alternator seems to be charging the battery. i turned on the headlights ac and radio and the volts dropped to 11.65.. i took the car for a drive and re tested the battery and nothing changed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...