Jump to content
SAU Community

Walbro 400Lph Problem


Recommended Posts

Theyre talking about fuel needs. If u run alot bigger pump than necessary u will heat the fuel up more

Thanks Jez,i just read about heating up fuel to the extent of boiling in another thread makes sense now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I run a non ethanol 400lph walbro instock R32 GTR position, has been in for almost a year now sits there corroding away... I mean dorment for months at a time as the car doesnt get used alot.

Has no problems pumping 400kw on stock pressure with id2000's

Link to comment
Share on other sites

these pumps dont like draw large distances its very important not to extend the pickup more than an inch from the base of the pump unless you know what your doing....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I got a walbro e85 450lph pump and wired it with thicker cables via a relay to get full 14volts

Had it tuned the other day on e85 and it seemed to run out of puff at around 360-370rwkw....didn't have time to check it out yet, I'm going to double check the voltage at the pump and give the sock a clean after a few tanks of ethanol incase it get clogged of shit

Anyone had this issue? My battery is in the boot so the power cable is short, also noticed the pump is very quiet, is this normal?

Any suggestions guys?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got a walbro e85 450lph pump and wired it with thicker cables via a relay to get full 14volts

Had it tuned the other day on e85 and it seemed to run out of puff at around 360-370rwkw....didn't have time to check it out yet, I'm going to double check the voltage at the pump and give the sock a clean after a few tanks of ethanol incase it get clogged of shit

Anyone had this issue? My battery is in the boot so the power cable is short, also noticed the pump is very quiet, is this normal?

Any suggestions guys?

I have the 416lph and im at 360kw so you should be able to get enough fuel with the 450lph..

I had a 20A fuse protecting mine and it blew after 1000ks so it must be pulling 20-25A, 2.5mm wiring all the way to the pump would be sufficient however I would prefer to use 4mm for the bulk of it and you should bypass the standard plug through the lid.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure, bromance with common shit box interests.
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Aren't we already on one? SAU unforgettable bromance.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...