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Or in my case, thrown the belt on, didn't use the spring, check cams align with timing marks, use Hex key to tension the belt to however tight I felt like setting it, torque up tensioner, stand back look at it and say "she'll be right" and it's good.

Wow.......

I agree that it can be done. Rotating the crank to the correct location to slack-out the belt and setting some "moderate" tension on it is what the idea behind it is. Too tight will wear belt fast, too loose may cause jump (which would have to be obviously too loose IMO). Remember to watch the tensioner as you rotate, you'll be surprised by it's movement by nothing other than cams / crank loading up. IIRC they are using the most slacked point in the rotation (ie-most slack taken up by tensioner), so if you set too hard of tension there, it's only going to get tighter from there.

I see how it can be done your way...belt life may be diminished though. I'll trust the Nissan engineers got it right.

Either way this timing belt is EASY compared to most other OHV engines I have done.

  • 7 months later...

Thank you from abroad. This pictorial helped me immensely! I realize you left out a few details of prep to get to the fan, belts and stuff but this took me no time to figure out.

Unfortunately my Puller Centre screw was too long and forced me to remove the rad. I was doing the water pump as well so it was necessary to drain the fluid anyways.

It was only a bit difficult to install the new belt so i tried putting the tensioner in place 1st and then installed the idler second. It worked so easy.

Turns out my car didn't need a belt but It needed a water pump. It was just showing signs of seepage from the bearings. 2nd belt was installed at 97k, 8 years ago and still it was in good shape. Motor has 160k now.

Still lots to learn, thanks again.

Cheers

Kevinpost-142803-0-10925400-1458015255_thumb.jpg

post-142803-0-39198900-1458015852_thumb.jpg

Edited by kharmata
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 11 months later...

The timing belt has to be timed to the marks behind the pulley cover = just like you did for the pics of the top cam pulleys.  The HB has its own mark for this.

The vehicle has to be started and idling at 650 rpm [so slow] and then using a timing light and slowly spinning your just loose CAS use the above pic and set your ignition timing to the 4th mark = 15' [each gap is 5'].

Once you do this lock your CAS off, rev the motor a couple of times, let it settle, and then recheck at 650rpm. 

 

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