Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well its a carbon copy of Elrodeo666's head which was good enough for 445 kw at 1.4 bar on -5's.

Have a look at the inlet ports on Brad's engine (SHOWOFFR32)... that is what they should look like.

Have a look at the inlet ports on Brad's engine (SHOWOFFR32)... that is what they should look like.

BRB. I'll go tell the bloke that ported the HKS drag car that he did it wrong.

BRB. I'll go tell the bloke that ported the HKS drag car that he did it wrong.

Go ahead... All I am suggesting is that the port looks polished from the photo.

To enhance mixture quality it is better to have a textured inlet port surface, especially considering you have massive injectors that wont atomise very well.

Well they proberbly are. But considering the guy has built mild to wild RB's day in and day out for the last 20 years, there must be a reason why he has done what he has done. Who know's what that reason is. I'll ask him in two weeks time when Marcus will sit him down and call me from Japan.

Have a look at the inlet ports on Brad's engine (SHOWOFFR32)... that is what they should look like.

The guy in Japan who has done all the port/polish and r&d on the head has built more high powered full race engines, 9 sec drag engines and drift spec engines then most porn stars have ever had roots.

And yes its polished as well. Why..you'll need to ask him about it but as one of Japans top engine builders who has built 100's of high spec engines, I think he has a resonable idea of what he's doing.

But hey everyone has their opinions.

And Paul its 445kw @ 1.3bar

The guy in Japan who has done all the port/polish and r&d on the head has built more high powered full race engines, 9 sec drag engines and drift spec engines then most porn stars have ever had roots.

And yes its polished as well. Why..you'll need to ask him about it but as one of Japans top engine builders who has built 100's of high spec engines, I think he has a resonable idea of what he's doing.

But hey everyone has their opinions.

And Paul its 445kw @ 1.3bar

Just to be clear, your talking flow from a polished port vs fuel atomisation from a rough cut port right?

I figure the rate that Paul's car drinks E85 it probably won't make a lot of difference when its on song. Its not as though there are a lot of injector options to provide a streetable 2lt/min injector flow. The value of optimising fuel atomisation from porting/polishing methods could probably be weighed against the options available for injector spray patterns for similar effect.

Just to be clear, your talking flow from a polished port vs fuel atomisation from a rough cut port right?

I figure the rate that Paul's car drinks E85 it probably won't make a lot of difference when its on song. Its not as though there are a lot of injector options to provide a streetable 2lt/min injector flow. The value of optimising fuel atomisation from porting/polishing methods could probably be weighed against the options available for injector spray patterns for similar effect.

Theres more going on with this head than just a port /polish job.

Been all machined up at Naprec to HKS race specs and then some custom work by HKS.

It has been designed purely for response and slamming his arse hard back in the seat and fro getting around a track nice and quick.

Pauls head has a bit more done to it than mine and has been built to handle 600~650kw if he ever chooses to go down that path.

Anyway this is Pauls build so wait a few weeks and he'll let you see whats what and at the end of the day it all comes down to what it does when it's all bolted together and tuned properly.

It will be interesting to see how it all ends up..

Hopefully one day maybe a V-cam and those new turb's that Gav has, it would be quite an animal.

Unfortunate about the old engine!

But it will certainly be interesting to see how this new setup performs in relation to the old setup. Especially with the addition of the new head. What sort of port job was done to the old head?

My mates car runs low 9's with a near std head, ports are just cleaned up. Makes about 880rwhp. What bigmikespec has said holds true, port finish 101 regardless of head type or setup usually doesn't go any finer finish then 80grit. Polishing the surface slows air speed and ruins mixture motion through the port. But maybe this particular guy has a formula that works for him and it goes against the theory that everybody else in the world works around. It will be interesting to see if it makes a difference or not.

Gotta keep an open mind about everything!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...