Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The funny thing is whenever u stepped on it, u had to turn it 1/4 turn to the right - i know that the back wheel was out of alignment but this was the same as Domonic Russo's yellow r32 gtr which was making 650awkw where he had to counter steer to keep it straight.

GTR's get massive torque steer in the front with decent power. Check out this video (the wheel alignment is spot on), in the first 3 gears it moves over a car length left and then in 4th I actually drive back onto the "racing line"

Edited by SimonR32

Rightio. The suspension stuff got started today. The sperm whale got weighed and some of the geometry measurements taken today. The porkie pig comes in at 1580 Kg with 1/4 tank of fuel. A little lighter than I thought. The only thing I have taken out is the spare wheel, jack and some of the boot lining. Apart from that it's all standard.

FC872F61-6E4E-47C9-8B47-F98E1F01BA01-662

74F8DCD0-DFD7-4B30-B5E4-D508B9FDFC4A-662

11ty strings everywhere. Tomorrow the shocks will come out so they can measure travel of this that and the other then go away and put together a combo. It'll be basiccally setup for "tarmac rally" which is pretty much what i'm doing with it. Hillclimbs and goat tracks like Wakefield park. Turn around time is between 2 and 4 weeks depending on what Bilstien has in the country.

Well isnt the r34 the heaviest of the gtrs?

Wat lap times u aiming for at wakefield?

Yeah they are, but an extra 20 Kg IIRC.

Times, who knows. I did a 1:10.02 revving to 5000 RPM last year. I solid 1:06 would be nice. It's the muppet behind the wheel that needs to practice :P

the 33 is the heaviest, my 34 came in at 1480 with 1/3 tank, but the tar was removed before I brought it

I remember your blue 34 in the garage.. Very nice.

I could have sworn the 32 was the only Gtr under 1500kgs

that is also what I thought/read

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...