Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

83747408-BDED-481D-A4E9-C644DF3AA119-142

Picture I took this morning with all the covers on. Still need to order a new radiator shroud though.

Also one of those radiator deflector thingos to cover up the horns and A/C fan etc :)

Stop being a lazy fkr and come pick it up :)

Yeah, ill get there!. Time has not been on my side! Grr.

Question for you Nick. Where is your GT PRO set to? Mines at Medium and it's one aggressive mofo. I may need to back it off a tad.

Also one of those radiator deflector thingos to cover up the horns and A/C fan etc :)

I need to find an ARC one. Not a fan of homo carbon crap.

I need to find an ARC one. Not a fan of homo carbon crap.

I was trying to get an ARC one originally but come across my Alloy one on Ebay randomly! Was already sprayed black too :woot:

Black... The new... Shiney? Lol

I remember when first speaking to Alex @ Plazmaman about 3 years ago and i was ordering the stealth kit and he said that Black was to be the new Chrome :P Its Black Bling!

Yeah, ill get there!. Time has not been on my side! Grr.

Question for you Nick. Where is your GT PRO set to? Mines at Medium and it's one aggressive mofo. I may need to back it off a tad.

I need to find an ARC one. Not a fan of homo carbon crap.

Id have to check with the boys that installed it, im not too sure

raidator guide

tits on a bull

Not when you are talking about the cosmetic stock looking finish! When you pop the bonnet and look down it look a bit average without it! He has gone so far with the presentation it might as well be finished off properly ;)

question, how does the air get to the air box intake if you block the airs path from the grill with the radiator guide ?

You can see the big gap in mine so it would still flow plenty of air... Although I haven't worked out a snorkel setup for mine as I wasn't clever enough to use a stock airbox :(

Oh yeah, scrap that idea!

Im sure brad at profab would be able to fab one up out of sheet ally and in corporate a funnel to the air intake from the front grill.

Then just paint it or powder coat it the new shiney lol.

Im sure brad at profab would be able to fab one up out of sheet ally and in corporate a funnel to the air intake from the front grill.

Then just paint it or powder coat it the new shiney lol.

:yes:

Mine had a shield/guide but it also had a 100mm hole in the guard with some NACA duct tubbing from under the air filter shield to the front grill, plus there is a heap of air voids around the front headlight to allow air to flow inside the air box if it has a opening on the front side behind the headlights.

No good for the ARC box I believe though, but good for a enclosed pod set up.

LOL, just saying.

question, how does the air get to the air box intake if you block the airs path from the grill with the radiator guide ?

Rightio. SO after 2 days of 11ty strings around and under the car, deflection gauges, tape measures, more strings, more measuring and even MORE STRINGS, I have a piece of paper with words and graphs. 7 pages of graphs and jargon that I hardly know what it meant.

From what I CAN gather from it. I will need to purchase a roll centre adjuster setup for the front. the HICAS lockout bar needs to be moved up 10ish mm to help eliminate bump steer in the rear. (Design fault possibly). The shocks will be Bilstien with a PSS9 body - That's where the similarity will end. From then on its all Dejan's specs. His valving, gas, spring and oil combo. People may laugh, but the spring rate in these will be about 20 KG/mm BUT it will be very pleasant on the street. They will be height adjustable and damper adjustable.

A little bit of testing and these will be available for R33 GTR's as a bolt in kit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...