Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why did you build a 2.8 and use an n1 pump haha, was lucky you made it that long without letting go!

I bought the car off a mate like that. That engine was built in 2005. It was always the one thing that I was worried about.

And I kept telling ya I had a tomei one under the bed with your name on it whenever you wanted it.

On a serious note, could the damage to the box have been done previously (pre this engine rebuild) when possibly the owner gave the car a bit of hiding now and again.

I'm talking possible microscopic stress fractures that may not have been visible during the boxes recent rebuild and with the new sandwich plate and diffs maybe no torsional give, well something gave.

Maybe time to pull that black carbon giant dildo out again that could help with torsional loading ???

Whats the damage diagnosis ?

And I kept telling ya I had a tomei one under the bed with your name on it whenever you wanted it.

On a serious note, could the damage to the box have been done previously (pre this engine rebuild) when possibly the owner gave the car a bit of hiding now and again.

I'm talking possible microscopic stress fractures that may not have been visible during the boxes recent rebuild and with the new sandwich plate and diffs maybe no torsional give, well something gave.

Maybe time to pull that black carbon giant dildo out again that could help with torsional loading ???

Whats the damage diagnosis ?

Marcus, I built this box about 5 years ago when I smashed the OEM box. That was a shock loading through my own fault.

That big dildo is long gone. Stupid POS!

Need to get it out and inspect. If (hoping) the gearset has survived (not liking my chances) ill put new bearings through it and whatever has failed then screw it back together, but from what Terry has said, it's a shock loading more than likely. When I did it, I'm not sure.

Not sure when I'll get to it with Xmas and shit coming up. The plan is ill wash it and drain the E85 out of it and flush with some 98. The car ain't going anywhere so ill just take my time.

Marcus, I built this box about 5 years ago when I smashed the OEM box. That was a shock loading through my own fault.

That big dildo is long gone. Stupid POS!

Need to get it out and inspect. If (hoping) the gearset has survived (not liking my chances) ill put new bearings through it and whatever has failed then screw it back together, but from what Terry has said, it's a shock loading more than likely. When I did it, I'm not sure.

Not sure when I'll get to it with Xmas and shit coming up. The plan is ill wash it and drain the E85 out of it and flush with some 98. The car ain't going anywhere so ill just take my time.

.... :(

We already told you to get an Air Shifted HKS box........... stop being a pussy

And i dont care if you cant downshift :P

Is that what we decided? I don't remember.... No idea why! :D

What about this mad RH9 box : http://www.rh9.or.jp/original-product/products-list_mission.html

The one at the top of the page. Chuck the link into google translate as can't be bothered translating as been speaking too much ping pong of late and on the beers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...