Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just wondering what gearbox is suitable to throw behind a high HP GTST RB motor. Standard manual box or anything made by Nissan just isnt strong enough, and HKS/TRUST/Hollinger etc are all out of the range of price. Its got to withstand 450-500rwkw, with minor street work included.

Any thoughts on what should be used?

Cheers,

Rick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39770-drag-racing-gearbox/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

mmm so far

C4 which I've noticed Rigoli like to use on the big R33's they build so they must be able to be adapted

Trimatic, I think I've read of skylines running them

I think the standard auto is Jatco? or could use one out of a VL?

all of the above would have to be built though to suit the HP and I'd say use transbrake and stall converter

What about the standard box (manual) being built as a dog box like Rigoli offer here http://www.rigoliracing.com.au/Gearsets.htm

Has anyone had any experience with the above?

damn that looks like a good idea, dog gears from 1 to 3, thats all most people need anyways for racing,. might give them a call, my cousin knows toni rigoli personlly maybe he can get me a dicount on the set, or organise a cheaper group buy.

  • 3 weeks later...

i think it's the fact endless dont really care as much as any of us would if the os kit stripped itself, they probs have 4 spare sets... every high hp gtr i know of in aus that has had an os has rooted 3rd.... call domenic from autostyle and ask him what he thinks of the os-cross mission or straight cut gears...not good...

also john munro ran a trust box and tore it a new one, they arent worth it in the end...will be goin a gtr box with pfitnez gears soon i dont think its the go but thats what the bloke wants....let you know how it goes probs be talking him into a holinger in 3 months :P

Hey all,

Just wondering what gearbox is suitable to throw behind a high HP GTST RB motor. Standard manual box or anything made by Nissan just isnt strong enough, and HKS/TRUST/Hollinger etc are all out of the range of price. Its got to withstand 450-500rwkw, with minor street work included.

Any thoughts on what should be used?

Cheers,

Rick

Hi Rick, being a GTST I assume it's 2wd? If so, I think a standard R33 GTST box may well be OK, we have one behind a 420 rwkw RB31DET that is used for circuit racing and the tyres give up long before the gearbox does ie; wheelspin. The problem with the standard gearboxes and OS cross missions is exacerbated by the 4wd and the extra weight of the GTR's. So if you have one, I'd give it a go.

That said, there is really no substitute for an auto in a 2wd drag car. Hugo's make a good one with all the gear for around $3K, as used in Sub Zero's Try 09 and others. You just have to learn to live with an auto on the street, personally I can't but many others can.

Hope that helps

I'm currently running an OS Cross Mission gearset with a billet sandwhich plate in my GTR and it's holding fine.

Last dyno run was at AutoSalon and my car made 617rwkw and 593awkw.

I'm happy with the box and it held together fine on the weekend when we went to Heathcote.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok I get you. But isn’t the butterfly intake a headache with the +T?  see this is my plan so far but please advise me into the right direction.  Nistune Ecu, 1000cc Bosch injectors, TD05 or TD06 Kinugawa turbo using stock rb25det exhuast manifold, walbro fuel pump unsure of model I think it’s 450/460, spitfire coils and sparks to suit and a R35 MAF sensor and boost sensor.    I was thinking maybe do a cheap eBay plenum $400-500 or try find a stock det neo intake. I think I’d port match it so it’s getting the full capacity but open to advice please.  Thanks 
    • The issue now is the 'fuel cut' while driving, and when it happend, it does not stall. This, I did not test the fuel pressure while driving as I cannot with a fuel pressure gauge. I do have Nistune logs, yes. I have also replaced the MAF Sensor.   Also related to the FPG Fuel Hanger – I just realized that I need a Deutsch Crimp Tool to crimp some cables for the FPG Fuel Hanger. Need to purchase additional cables as the kit only included 2, which are for the float. FPG has not responded to my emails so far since purchasing. I thought about taking it to someone and having it done professionally, but I am reluctant since everyone I took it to messed up in some way.  
    • There's a good German place in Brisbane if youre up for the drive 😛
    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
×
×
  • Create New...