Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 126
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

On another GTR I have experienced the shuffle running gt-rs turbos. Still has stock twin turbo pipe. I might suggest changing it. But once you hit 3500-4000 its hang on.

I have a mate with -10s on his R and it shuffles its brains out. He refers to is as Darth Vader, pretty funny.

Surprisingly though, he notes that in the build stages he once had it tuned somewhere different to where it was tuned now and there was NO shuffle. He rekons the car was a lot quicker also but the dyno read lower. I think the fast/shuffle-less tune was about the 380kw mark where as Darth Vader is making the 400 mark.

That would go to say the tune has a lot to do with it, but thats about all the value I can really add :( Intake piping on that car is all stock bar a big drag cooler.

I have a mate with -10s on his R and it shuffles its brains out. He refers to is as Darth Vader, pretty funny.

Surprisingly though, he notes that in the build stages he once had it tuned somewhere different to where it was tuned now and there was NO shuffle. He rekons the car was a lot quicker also but the dyno read lower. I think the fast/shuffle-less tune was about the 380kw mark where as Darth Vader is making the 400 mark.

That would go to say the tune has a lot to do with it, but thats about all the value I can really add :( Intake piping on that car is all stock bar a big drag cooler.

So another vote for that the tune would have a lot to do with it? I'm guessing that tune wise, it's all about trying to get the engine to swallow as much air as posible down low to stay ahead of shuffle causing density. As soon as the engine can't use the air, that air has to leave somewhere else and that usually through a stalled out turbo. Well, when I bolt these on I want to take her down to Godzilla or the likes to get that tune.

When I first bought my car MOST of the shuffle was out of it. I put on a duel entry ARC cooler (and lost my BOV return pipe so the BOV's were blocked off) and that was an outright disaster with shuffling.

How did you get it to stop?

Got rid of the rubbish RS's. Would not go back to them if they paid me!

I didn't have it to begin with so I dont know how to get it to stop. My engine runs all the standard pipes/hoses on the hot side. Guess just with my engine package works for me. The engine swallows any compressed air.

It is just not like Piggaz's set up with a 2.8l which wasn't working and why he removed the HKS GT-RS and complaining that they are 'shit' but doesn't think that his engine is 'shit'.

I know it works for someone on a 2.6l. no shuffle whatsoever. ME! lol. :P

Edited by destrukshn

Dyno.jpg

All done on a 2.6l @ 24psi. Actuator was leaking at the time and couldnt hold the boost. Have since upgraded to 21psi actuators and have hit 400awkw @ 5000rpm @ 28psi on the same dyno then I had coilpack issues causing misfiring/gearbox was rattling. All these have been sorted and since then I havent had a chance to get it tested, but will be testing again once it goes RB30. :)

Edited by destrukshn

I like.

However, my goal is to just break the 400hp mark ;) That there is like 680hp or something!!!

Lots of -7 kits floating around..... -9's very rare, probably because people either don't buy them because they're more expensive than the other GT2860's or...because people don't sell them because they like them lol :P

What are you comparing? My point is just being with any right setup you shouldnt be getting any compressor surge. If you have the setup incorrect, then you may expect some.

I am just pointing out even with -10/GTRS i am not getting any surge. Doesnt matter how much power i am making.

Easy now peoples...I was just asking about shuffle at the stage....surge as we know is a lot more violent and the turbos I was looking at are too small and inefficient to cause this. Well I think they would be anyway :)

...except for a maybe a set of hybrid 2530's that I was looking at with enlarged compressor wheels

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah i found that alot of parts can be wrong or "very" hard to get the real right one. I already bought some brakes years ago on me "old" GT calipers and they were wrong too 😄  I told them too. Even send them pictures...but they said "EBC catalogue has them on my car... So i dont know what their answer will be. I call monday them and let them know that they are really not on my car. If they were they would be already on a car...
    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
×
×
  • Create New...