Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Quick question as no clutch shop will give me a straight answer...

Im after a new clutch for my R34 GT-T, Currently modded with FMIC, BOV, Pod filter, full 3' exhaust, and my Shiney new eboost street :D.

Im looking to get it tuned as soon as i have the clutch installed with a nistune, First Question is Which clutch do i buy?? all shops ive been to say what is the torque of your car, Problem being, i dont know untill i get a tune, and i cant get a tune till i have a clutch!

2nd question, Before the tune, Are there any other supporting mods i should look into as to make the tune more economical/beneficial? ive heard Z32, Fuel pump, Coil packs. But not sure what can be overlooked and installed later, or what needs to be installed for the tune.

Any advice or opinions greatly appreciated, Cheers guys!

Edited by EuphXP
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398503-which-clutch-s/
Share on other sites

I am running an Exedy cushioned button clutch, happy with the way it drives and feels....price was a bit of a kick in the teeth though.....

Cant remember what they are rated too, i think it was a tad over 300kw so it should be more than enough for your needs...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398503-which-clutch-s/#findComment-6328715
Share on other sites

In regards to which clutch you should buy it is basically a question of do you have any future plans for more power or what is your future power goal and get a clutch to suit that. But with the setup listed something like a heavy duty exedy clutch for a few 100 will be more than enough. For the other mods youve listed coilpacks only need to be done if your ones are stuffed and z32 wouldnt really be needed until you probably do your turbo and start pushing more power where your stock afm is at its limits but the fuel pump would be worth replacing if you want to do it for piece of mind but again for that setup you listed not essential.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398503-which-clutch-s/#findComment-6328719
Share on other sites

Wasnt looking to spend an arm and a leg, and as for future mods, im only aiming for ~250awkw for the time being,

Ive got 2k set aside for my clutch installed, and have been quoted for the nistune installed and tuned for $1100.

Was just going to use my local mechanic for the clutch install, just need to know which clutch to throw in it...

Ive had a look at the exedy clutch kits, as with the NPC Kits and was quoted for a heavy duty organic clutch kit. $753.50. My mechanic said he would rather work with exedy as he has contacts.

If i was to go exedy, which clutch kit do i go? Heavy duty? Button? Ceramic?

And as for the flywheel, ive heard with ceramic clutches its best to get a new flywheel to improve the life of the clutch, ive also heard that theres no need to do flywheel >.<

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398503-which-clutch-s/#findComment-6328787
Share on other sites

you should never put a lightweight flywheel in a street car... totally goes against anything streetable

it's come with the clutch. this one-> http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/clutch/sckit.html

so npc organic clutch will be better than this one for street use?

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398503-which-clutch-s/#findComment-6329664
Share on other sites

Npc also do a 10" organic clutch which is rated to 280 rwkw. Jap__star on here has one and pushing 300 rwkw. Very driveable and would be perfect for a street car.

We regularly put these in cars making 300rwkw without issues. They can hold a lot more torque than we give them credit for and being a pull type clutch, they will hold more torque than their push type counterpart.

would the carbotic 10" handle 325rwkw...?

We've tested them to 600rwhp, drag racing 9k GTR launches, track work for years. They will eventually wear out if abused or not driven correctly. It's usually the latter that gets most people on their first button clutch

which one is better for street use?

nismo clutch kit(the basic one with lightweight fly wheel that one) or npc organic clutch?

I would highly recommend the NPC Organic 10". Have fitted them to many cars. Get nothing but rave reviews from each person every time. Be careful over 400hp though, we don't often push them harder than that so how far they will go is still relatively unknown

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398503-which-clutch-s/#findComment-6329751
Share on other sites

I have had both a Organic NPC and a Bigmouth track NPC button.

The organic is better for every day use, I was pushing 450hp when my GTR was my daily and not an issue what so ever until of course wear took place. I was doing 6500-7000rpm launches getting my 1/4mile time down to a 12.385 at 111mph when I decided the clutch had enough it was slipping at the top end of my gears mainly second and 3rd.

I asked MANY MANY suggestions on which way to go after killing the organic. Dan(ERD), Noel(Fineline), Strik3r, Hyped6 and Strudel.

A majority suggested the Bigmouth track, and I am glad I listened to them. The clutch is a little adsertive and obviously doesn't like being ridden like a button clutch shouldn't be, but in traffic somewhat difficult to avoid. but 1 of the best things I had in my GTR. Not as piggy as some of the button clutches I have driven and VERY liveable.

My clutch is still holding out and I don't expect having to upgrade for a long long time, so It's my recomendation.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398503-which-clutch-s/#findComment-6330070
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...