Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I use mine every 3rd night? not too bad. I just drop it at around 1700rpm, I don't bother driving it smooth (clutch will last longer). Up the car park ramp at my gym is gold, there's a speed hump midway up. I usually just handbrake then chirp it over, people think I am retarded.

Because race car :P

Sweet, thanks guys! More parts i didnt budget for...... Car has done 1500kms since tune and has killed coilovers and clutch so far, what next? (Nobody answer that, Flamin Mongrels) lol

done a few thousand on my Carbotic now Mat..2 track days..

Its no pig its a dream to drive man, you won't be disappointed at all

unless you prefer grumpy old man clutches...why anyone would want one or one of those crappy rattly metal things is beyond me.

.The NPC is all class

done a few thousand on my Carbotic now Mat..2 track days..

Its a dream to drive man you won't be disappointed at all

unless you prefer grumpy old man clutches...why anyone would want one or one of those crappy rattly metal things is beyond me.

.The NPC is all class :D

Ah sweet! Thanks for that :D

Has it still got a good pedal feel etc? Apparently he said mine will be modified as ill aim for 400kw eventually.... :yes:

I slip my 10' NPC every time I take off, I know its not the best for the clutch but I'm 2 years in and its still showing no signs of slipping.

There a quality product thats for sure. I'll have a look at mine when the engine comes out of my car in the last half of this year.

Can always send it back for a rebuild anyway

I also did some calling around apparently confusing ppl when i called after matt had lol .... but i have the silver plated excedy comp clutch abd jim berry said its a good bit of gear and he can build it to handle 450kw + with a 10" or bigger something and solid centre carbon thingo ?? sounds good he built my mates cusco hyper angle and its amazing and handles all the clutch kicking he can thor at it withh 300 odd kw so might go down that path

I also did some calling around apparently confusing ppl when i called after matt had lol .... but i have the silver plated excedy comp clutch abd jim berry said its a good bit of gear and he can build it to handle 450kw + with a 10" or bigger something and solid centre carbon thingo ?? sounds good he built my mates cusco hyper angle and its amazing and handles all the clutch kicking he can thor at it withh 300 odd kw so might go down that path

LOL, i spoke to Jim for nearly 2 hours yesterday man!

He said they will be a pretty tough bit of gear, mine will be different specs to yours though as ill be on the road more than track :P

I got that Exedy Silver NC10T push pressure plate from a R32 GT-R if you want it, it's 1.1 tonnes

Problem is your GT-t is Pull not Push, unless you want to convert it to a push setup. Cheaper in the end.

  • 1 year later...

#strongbump

So yeah, I've had my NPC clutch for nearly 2 years, about 15 000 km & 3 track days..

It's starting to slip!

In 4th when you mash the pedal it will slip a little/shudder then bite & my friction point is quite high up. It engages in the last 1cm or so.

I think it's dead, maybe my mates have ridden it to death :(

How long has your NPC carbotic lasted?

I pulled my NPC when I did my engine change out. decided to get it rebuilt rather then having to pull the gearbox out later on if it started slipping. Have to say, the clutch looked great, no marks/hot spots etc on the flywheel or pressure plate and the friction material, besides being worn, looked great. Best looking clutch I've ever pulled out of a car. Could have gone back in but was running low on friction material so thought I'd start fresh

They were very helpful and quick rebuilding the clutch to. Sent it away Thursday I think, had it back on Tuesday or wednesday.

#strongbump

So yeah, I've had my NPC clutch for nearly 2 years, about 15 000 km & 3 track days..

It's starting to slip!

In 4th when you mash the pedal it will slip a little/shudder then bite & my friction point is quite high up. It engages in the last 1cm or so.

I think it's dead, maybe my mates have ridden it to death :(

How long has your NPC carbotic lasted?

Mine should have been similar in design i guess and after 5000km it also looked brand new... I would go with Callans suggestion and just get a freshen up, its just new pads and a quick clean up most likely... Could be other causes for the premature wear though not necessarily the clutch itself, grease or oil contaminating it etc... Only way to know is to pull it out and have a squizz!

I ran 255rwkw for pretty much the whole time I had the clutch in, and I daily drive it and slip it on the street a fair bit. So I'd say if the wear on mine was excessive then it was to be expected. I dont think it was terribly worn but, should have measured how much material was left and compared to new.

The rebuild is basically a complete new clutch. The pressure plate I think was brand new and they just removed and replaced the pads on the clutch plate, must have checked the springs etc and the spline as well but this wasnt replaced (all looked good when I pulled it out so not suprised)

All up it cost me just shy of $500 with a new throwout bearing and express delivery, so while thats not 'cheap' its not to bad for a new clutch considering new ones are up near $800 now I think?

This is all my NPC gear reconditioned:

20131120_135325_zps0pnz4ghv.jpg

20131120_135331_zpsmrinauhs.jpg

20131120_135043_zpstlb27war.jpg

Edited by 89CAL

I'm just a little concerned about the premature wear, especially my car isn't make more than 200kW

Might pull out the box next weekend whilst I fit the new turbo :)

Yep good plan! There is no way its power related and it shouldnt wear that quick unless its been driven like shit...

Pull it out and report your findings :P

#strongbump

So yeah, I've had my NPC clutch for nearly 2 years, about 15 000 km & 3 track days..

It's starting to slip!

In 4th when you mash the pedal it will slip a little/shudder then bite & my friction point is quite high up. It engages in the last 1cm or so.

I think it's dead, maybe my mates have ridden it to death :(

How long has your NPC carbotic lasted?

Just copper mix it and be done with it. If you did it in the first place you would have to pull the box out again! :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...